Delco distributor, prestolite coil

[smashbeat]

I bought a sailboat with an atomic 4.
Not starting, previous owner said that it had ignition issues.
I have found out that he rewired the coil in the wrong way!
I guess he just bought new distributor cap, points, condenser and plugs, he couldn't figure it out and put it back together quickly.
The distributor is a Delco, while the coil a prestolite.
It should not matter, right?
Both primary and secondary test good so hopefully isn't fried.
I have no spark but I have 12v at coil positive. But Always, so I'm gonna check the instruments and switch panel and go from there.

Please let me know if for some reason a Delco distributor must have a different coil than the prestolite that I own.

Thanks!

[ndutton]

The coil and distributor do not need to match. Confirm your points are opening and closing, check the points gap at the distributor cam peak. If you have the test instrument available, check the dwell.

[smashbeat]

Hi, I got a new coil, points and condenser from Moyer Marine and I immediately got a good spark.
I primed the carburetor, pulled the choke and the engine started right away for a few seconds.
Cranked again and it runs for like 10 seconds. Problem is that as soon as I go to open the hull thru valve it shuts down.

I feel like opening the water valve is not the cause of the engine dying, but just that the engine runs out of the (primed) fuel. It has a mechanical fuel pump.

Also, there were 4 wires to the coil. Negative side going to the distributor. Positive from ignition. The other two were loose. One is from the alternator, the other one from the RPM meter. I looked at some schematics and it seems that those 2 goes both to positive. Correct?

Any suggestions?
Thanks

[ndutton]

The wire to the tachometer (RPM meter) goes on the '-' terminal.

Sounds like you're chasing a fuel delivery problem.

[Sam]

A 0 to 15psi fuel pressure gauge [$20 plus $10 adaptor] would help analyzing this problem and future issues, look for steady 2 to 4psi. Considering the PO's probable maintenance knowledge I would not be surprised if you should get a new fuel pump. A harbor friend had a similar problem, called Moyer for advise and fuel pump and was suggested to quickly go to local auto parts store, get an inexpensive electric "posi flow" style [most brands incorporate "42S" for the right pump in label]. It fixed his shutdown problem for short term and later ordered upgraded to the Moyer Facet pump. Also check the tank for fuel supply/gas quality/water at the bottom etc.

[smashbeat]

Thanks for the replies.
Today I run a quick test with a funnel straight into the carburetor cutting off the fuel pump and the engine ran just fine.
So I think that the pump is the issue as you guys predicted.

I have the mechanical pump. It is worth to refurbish or replace with a new one or I should just go with an electric?

I thought about the pressure gauge. I still have the rigid fuel tubing, so I guess it is a good time for an upgrade. I will do some research on the topic but I guess it is down to get the right fittings and tee the pressure gauge.

I have to admit that I am having a lot of fun with this engine. It reminds me when I serviced an engine for the first time. It was a Moto Guzzi V7.
From knowing nothing about it you end up knowing each single bolt of it. On a sailboat it is even a more valuable knowledge.

[Sam]

I have gone through 3 Facet electric fuel pumps in about 43 years and the last one was changed out for preventative reasons. You need a upstream filter [plenty of info this] and should add a" liquid filled" pressure gauge. I am happy with the stainless, glass faced "Marshall" brand. good luck.