Palmer P60

[AFisch]

Adam, yikes. Two things to figure out on the carb and one regarding the tank position as per Al.

You mention the adj jet. I have had some poor experiences with these and I don't like them because they can leak. We will get to the adjusting procedure later once the leak is fixed. Is the leak coming from the adj jet?

RE the floats and the needle & seat. If it is leaking from the inside and not the adj jet removal will be necessary. The "bowl assembly" can leak in 2 ways. One way is a hole in the float from tweeking, this can be checked by shaking the float of feeling the fuel in it rolling around. The float can be drained and soldered shut again although a new float is first choice.
The second is the needle & seat (N/S). Take a good look at the needle, is it a soft tipped or brass? Then look into the seat at the bottom with a magnifying glass. The seat should look clean and free of nicks. The seat can be dressed if it is compromised and we'll cover that once we know what is causing the leak. Also the seat must be firmly "seated" to seal the threads usually with a fiber washer.

I have always suggested a pressure gage in front of the carb. However the one thing I do is mount a valve on the exit side of the gage for shutting the fuel off to let the engine run out of fuel. No leaks and it keeps the carb cleaner.

Your on the right track.
Dave Neptune

Ok, going to take it off and pull apart again...I ended up not replacing the needle and seat because I didn't have a flat head screwdriver big enough to fit the seat properly without potential of damaging...good excuse to get more tools...I will replace the needle and seat right away and check the floats for leaks.

John Cookson, thank you so much!

N_Dutton...I have the fuel valve at the tank shut off just in case and both battery banks are turned off...I will be heading down this afternoon.

Thank you all!

[JOHN COOKSON]

..I ended up not replacing the needle and seat because I didn't have a flat head screwdriver big enough to fit the seat properly without potential of damaging...good excuse to get more tools.

Here's my way.
1st get the proper tool.
Put the carb half over a piece of 2X4 or 4X4. Hold with one hand, get square over (stand up) and twist the tool with the other hand. This will avoid any sideways torque. You will probably be amazed how easy the seat comes loose.

Stick with it. You are getting closer and learning a lot.

ex TRUE GRIT

[AFisch]

Here's my way.
1st get the proper tool.
Put the carb half over a piece of 2X4 or 4X4. Hold with one hand, get square over (stand up) and twist the tool with the other hand. This will avoid any sideways torque. You will probably be amazed how easy the seat comes loose.

Stick with it. You are getting closer and learning a lot.

ex TRUE GRIT

Thank John....I'll try that if it is still too sticky with the proper side flathead.

And yes, I have learned a ton about my engine through all this, non of this has been time wasted since I gained so much knowledge an confidence in my engine now.

And Just FYI everyone...went back down to check on it and there was no more fuel leaking out or gas smell. But with that said, I did have the valve at the tank shut off.

I'll be removing and replacing the needle and seat very soon.

[AFisch]

Ok, new frustration...

After removing the carb again, I doweled out the seat under the float and ended up putting the new needle in that came with the rebuild kit. Reassembled, re-installed...and seems like the leaking of fuel out of the air intake has stopped...so accomplishment there.

Now however, I am having a few things that are not normal.

1. I am sure I need to do some adjustments of the main jet and the mixtures as I hear a very subtle firing when engine is running.

2. The engine seems to run fine, but when I shut it down, it sounds like something in the engine block does a couple more turns and then I hear what sounds like a tapping, but more like a dripping sound from within the engine. This happens for a few moments after I shut the engine off and then stops.

3. I did a few little adjustment to the main jet, but ended up setting back to 1.5 turns out...last few tries of running the engine, it'll now only run with the choke half pulled. This was not happened when I was first firing it up tonight.


So, I am getting it to run, no more fuel leak...but I am not happy with the way it is running or the strange sounds when I shut it off.

Anyone have any suggestions.

Adam

[AFisch]

Ok, went and bough a new wrench set that fits better in the area where I have access to one of the bolts. Re-attached the carb, making sure there is no air leak and we are all good!...simple things make the biggest difference.

Engine still makes a weird noise after shut down, almost like the prop tries to do another turn or two...and then I hear a weird dripping noise from somewhere around the alternator area, but more inside the engine.

I am not sure if it did this before I rebuilt the carb at all or not, but does anyone have ideas on what that could be?

Thanks,
Adam

[Administrator]

Can you record it and post it here in the form of a YouTube video?

Is what you hear raw water draining backwards?

Bill

[joe_db]

Can you record it and post it here in the form of a YouTube video?

Is what you hear raw water draining backwards?

Bill

That is usually not a good sign if that is what the sound is. Does the engine have a working anti-siphon valve of some kind?

[AFisch]

Can you record it and post it here in the form of a YouTube video?

Is what you hear raw water draining backwards?

Bill

Hey Bill, Next time I am down there I'll try to take a video/audio of it and post it up.

Thanks

[AFisch]

That is usually not a good sign if that is what the sound is. Does the engine have a working anti-siphon valve of some kind?

Hey Joe_db...I hope that is not the case then. Not sure about the anti-siphon valve. What would I be looking for if it does?

I'll google it as well and check. I'll update when I get down there next.

Thanks,
Adam

[Dave Neptune]

Adam, the anti-syphon valve would be mounted in a "loop" above the waterline on the water line that feeds into the exhaust from the manifold. When the engine is running the water pressure holds the valve closed and the water goes out the exhaust. When the engine is shut down the valve opens and lets air into the line to "break" the syphon. This syphoning is what will fill the engine with water if it fails!!!

Some boats do not have the anti-syphon valve as they are using a different exhaust, even on the A-4's.

Dave Neptune

[AFisch]

Adam, the anti-syphon valve would be mounted in a "loop" above the waterline on the water line that feeds into the exhaust from the manifold. When the engine is running the water pressure holds the valve closed and the water goes out the exhaust. When the engine is shut down the valve opens and lets air into the line to "break" the syphon. This syphoning is what will fill the engine with water if it fails!!!

Some boats do not have the anti-syphon valve as they are using a different exhaust, even on the A-4's.

Dave Neptune

Ok...really good to know. I'll have a look when I am down there next. Although the noise I am hearing sounds like it is on the other side of the engine from where the exhaust is.

Adam

[edwardc]

It should look something like this:

[AFisch]

Hey All...just a quick update.

Ended up going for a sail last Saturday (first time since this problem started before sept)...beautiful day, dolphins, whales, and the kids did not get bored!

I intended on taking a video of the engine when shutting down so you guys could hear the (hopefully) the noise. But, when pulling into the slip, I threw her into reverse to slow down and prop walk me into alignment with the slip as I always do. I normally only do this for a moment and then back into neutral, hop off the boat and tie her up. This time, the engine stalled when I put it in reverse, not right away. I should have given it a little more gas. I did notice that since rebuilding the carb, she does want a little more gas when in forward or reverse as opposed to neutral. Obviously since there is a load on the engine. I am not overly concerned about this, but if anyone has suggestions of making the proper adjustments to the carb to help this, I will take them.

With that said...I intended to take video with audio so you could hear what i am hearing (the dripping or tapping noise). Since I was unable capture it, it went in the back of my mind until now (browsing this forum). I can't recall which thread I read it, but here is my thought on my dripping matter:

I have never closed the raw water valve...could the dripping noise potentially be from all the work I have been doing, cranking engine, etc over and over, eventually bringing too much water in? Next time I am down there, I figured I will pull the spark plugs to see if there is water in the engine (fingers crossed no).

If there is, can I close off the raw water inlet and run the engine for a short time to flush it out? Of course, my worry now would be salt inside the engine since it is raw water cooled.

Adam

[JOHN COOKSON]

Hey All...just a quick update.

I am not overly concerned about this, but if anyone has suggestions of making the proper adjustments to the carb to help this, I will take them.
Adam

The first thing to do into make sure the"ignition side" as perfect as possible. Timing, dwell, advance, clean plugs, so on.
Then adjust the idle mixture and idle speed until you find the best combination of settings your engine.
When all is correct (clean prop, trany adjustment ect) you will be able to shift into gear and the engine will not die. At least this is the way it works for an A4.


ex TRUE GRIT

[Dave Neptune]

Is there a timing mark on the Palmer? If so check all under the cap, points, rotor, cap and c--advance. Once you are sure of the distributor assembly it is time to set the timing. Once done the idle can be adjusted. Start at about 1 1/4 turns out off the seat. The speed is adjusted at the stop on the throttle arm. Check to be sure the gaskets are sealed at the manifold to carb..

Does the Palmer use a scavenge tube? If not there is not an internal one on this carb so a bit of fabricating may be needed for safety.

I think you may be hearing the water draining out of the loop and or exhaust after shutting down, All of the water in the flow will need to settle to the lowest point thus the noise..

Dave Neptune