What kind of motor oil do you use?

[old-sailer]

Just to ad my 2 cents.. this was also my concern.

The previous owner used Valvoline 10W30 in the A4... clutch slipped a lot. If you opened up the throttle while cruising the engine would eventually rev up and you'd go nowhere as the clutch slipped away. It also popped out of reverse.

I went with Mobil 1 10W40 motorcycle oil... no friction modifiers. No more clutch slip. My only issue is a lower oil pressure, which I questioned in another thread here. Now that I know there's an adjustment, and I now know where, I'm going to crank it up a touch.

The engine is quieter, and doesn't slip out of reverse now and also will speed up going forward when I open the throttle.

I have read about others with slipping clutches and popping out of reverse and then I read about the oil they use and I suspect this is why.

I also note here people whining about the cost of oil when you bought a sailboat. Spend thousands on a boat then cheap out on the oil. Duh.!!

The only concern for me is whether that oil has the friction modifiers that will mess up the wet clutch. I'm assuming you made sure the oil you're using doesn't contain those?

And if so, care to share exactly what brand you've found to work so well?

[Ball Racing]

The way the reverse band is, and no detent device for reverse,
you sometimes need to keep pressure on the shifter to stay in reverse, it's not nessecarily the oils fault.
Also your adjustments will have alot to do with that, just as the foward slip you noticed, tighten it one more notch.

[old-sailer]

When I put the old girl in either forward or reverse now it never pops out. It just stays there.

It shifts better, runs better, good pressure. (I explained in another thread I found a leaking tube which gave me lower pressure.. fixed)

The way the reverse band is, and no detent device for reverse,
you sometimes need to keep pressure on the shifter to stay in reverse, it's not nessecarily the oils fault.
Also your adjustments will have alot to do with that, just as the foward slip you noticed, tighten it one more notch.

[keithems]

briefly -- since i've discussed in another thread....

the best cure for slippage is adjustment -- just did mine [c&c30 also] and no more slippage.....yay!

also re. motor oil to use:

here's a pretty good url for some real info:

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

[no i don't work for them]

[67c&ccorv]

Shell Rotela 15-40.

[keithems]

there's no doubt from all i've read here and elsewhere, that that is the optimal.

the only question is, is it worth the cost and the effort to obtain, when 10w30 and 40 are available virtually everywhere?

k

[hanleyclifford]

My second choice, for a recently rebuilt or "tight" engine would be the best straight 30w detergent available, never 10w 30 except in cold areas.

[keithems]

do tell why, hanley

btw--the "w" means "winter" meaning a multigrade like 10w30..you mean just a 30 wt, right?

and i'm not sure if my engine qualifies as newly rebuilt or tight....yes, it was just out...but it's not like an mmi exchange....cam shaft was replaced [with used], new rings, new rod bearings, some new valves--the rest serviced, head serviced, block hot tanked [i think], oil screen replaced....so...not sure....

i did notice last nite on initial start up it blew a fair amt of blue-grey smoke for about 30 sec. -- is that oil leaking by the rings already?

[hanleyclifford]

do tell why, hanley

btw--the "w" means "winter" meaning a multigrade like 10w30..you mean just a 30 wt, right?

and i'm not sure if my engine qualifies as newly rebuilt or tight....yes, it was just out...but it's not like an mmi exchange....cam shaft was replaced [with used], new rings, new rod bearings, some new valves--the rest serviced, head serviced, block hot tanked [i think], oil screen replaced....so...not sure....

i did notice last nite on initial start up it blew a fair amt of blue-grey smoke for about 30 sec. -- is that oil leaking by the rings already?

If you just replaced rings expect a little oil burning until the new rings get settled. On another thread I mentioned that I changed to 15w 40 based on oil pressure and noise issues. I really like the performance with the 15w 40 but I think an engine with a "tight oil pressure curve" would do just fine with 30. Some members have reported clutch slippage with 10w 30.

[keithems]

i had the slippage with a variety of oils....

i think in most cases the only good way to cure it is to adjust it properly, which i did.....yes getting down there is a p.i.t.a. for an old guy like me...but necessary

on my boat the yoke for the tranny cable is attached on the top of the tranny cover -- held by the same bolts -- so getting the cover back on is the hard part....i did find however, that i can leave one of the 2 bolts holding the yoke on -- just loose -- and slide the cover over enuf to do the adjustment -- so then replacing it is easier, since the one bolt helps position things -- still took a lot of time, but worth it....

not sure what you mean by noise -- i'm finding now hanley that i still have that ticking noise -- esp at idle -- seems to be coming from near the flywheel...but if i put in a little extra oil, or screw in the adjuster a bit, it goes away -- unfortunately, doing that means i see some oil drips under the engine after running it at cruise...do u think the rotella 15w40 would help with that [the noise and/or the dripping]? -- or do i want to go to the straight 30 wt, which presumably may be thicker -- though not really -- based on the amsoil website, 10w30 and 30 would be the same thickness once warmed up to operating temp -- the 10w40 would be thicker...

[hanleyclifford]

The light ticking is fairly common and harmless from what I have seen. If you overfill the oil you may be losing it out the tailshaft seal or even the oil pan gasket or joint where pan, block and gear housing meet. As far as turning the adjuster, I would not exceed 40 psi at cruise.

[Mo]

Tardy last week and knew the meter was at the 20 hour mark...and the A4 was due for an oil change. Figured I wouldn't motor much down the shore for a 4 day cruise...turns out we motored 12 hours in less than favorable conditions but all worked well. No oil usage and the engine ran like a champ.

Today, changed oil again with 15w40...comfortable again. Remember to turn that raw water pump grease cap every couple of hours as well when motoring

[cduer]

Shell Rotella T 30w Label Change

I was wondering if there is a difference in the Shell Rotella T 30w and the Rotella T1 30w. The new label does not have the gasoline rating. It only shows CF-2 and CF. I have been using the Pennzoil 30w but looks like the Rotella might have better additives. Thoughts?

[Mo]

read through this.

Hi, re your question in post #58:

It should be written on the bottle safe for gasoline engines as well. "S" rating should be there. If not, I don't know. The oil I buy states may be used in Gasoline, Diesel and Propane engines....attached is a read for you to look through. If you read more on the diesel aspect "C" and see what everything means and I think it's superior. Been running it for a long time now. Worth the read....enjoy.

http://www.motorexbih.com/API-SAE%20Engine%20Oil%20Service.pdf

[S1lverfox]

Oil Used

I'm using Shell Rotella T 1 30W.
Cduer, If you goggle "Shell Rotella engine oil" the Shell site has descriptions of all the Rotella oils including T & T1.
Regards, Bob P.