Just another overhaul thread

[Surcouf]

One of those shops.... you enter and you know you came to the right place !! Hundreds of starters and alternators, dead or alive, from floor to ceiling, and that mixed delicious smell of burnt Bakelite, cleaning oil and fresh grease.
Paid 215$ including tax for overhaul of both alternator and starter (plus replacement of couple broken connections, missing small parts etc... 2 weeks. ACE armature Pawtucket RI. I recommend

[Administrator]

Who remembers that old post about the old dog lying on the floor, or something like that? Maybe Shawn?

Bill

ps: Yeah, I read every single one....

[ndutton]

Did the shop mention preserving the ignition proof features? Any mention of SAE J1171 standard? Marine shops are keenly aware but general automotive shops usually aren't.

[roadnsky]

Who remembers that old post about the old dog lying on the floor, or something like that? Maybe Shawn?

It was Russ way back in '09... here


"Here's how to spot a good shop:
You have to go to the bad part of town(industrial that is)
They don't always advertise, you need a referral. First go to a tractor, trucking or marine shop; or a smoky bar to get this.
The front door is hard to find.
If there is a pit bull at the door, try another shop.
The place will be dark and no one will be at the counter. This is ok.—they are working. you'll hear hissing and other noises of bench-top industry. There is a bell somewhere—look around for it. Don't use the bell, it's rude.
Yell "helloooooo". This will bring an old blind black Labrador retriever to the front. This is ok. you will now be served.
Give them your phone number, it's all they need(no cell, you don't want to look like a spender)
Talk mostly about the weather and casually mention it's for OLD boat that you are helping to fix up. Beyond that be honest. Admit you don't know much but heard they were a good shop. Absolutely NO politics!
No, you are NOT in a hurry.
No, they do NOT have a web site–ask for their business card. The card will be old and greasy. Don't worry you can wash up later.
You must learn how to say " have a good one" in the local dialect, and tell them you have to get back to your lame job.
This is a good time to ask for their referral to a good lunch cafe.
Get lost so they can get back to work. You have been talking to the actual person that will do the work.
Watch your step as you leave. The lab is blind remember, and he doesn't go far from the door."

[Surcouf]

Today 02:59 PMSurcouf
So I just had them rebuilt the alternator without checking if they knew about the explosion proof or not. I will have to ask them. Thank you!!!

I agree 100% on the ‘09 shop description!!!

[Surcouf]

Today it is Christmas!!!

Thank you Ken!!!

[Surcouf]

So after a stall due to low temperatures in New England, , progress comes in baby steps...
- head dropped at the machine shop. Here too, you know you are at the right place when your eyes can’t count all heads, blocks, shaft etc... stored everywhere. And when you get to the counter and the shop owner looks at the head from 20 feet away and states before we even say hello... «* so an Atomic 4, rust I guess?”. Ok now we are talking!
- after receiving my toy box from MM a week ago or so, I was finally able to try to remove the valves (first time, I am a valve-virgin). So the 4 intakes valves came out perfectly: moderate pressure, a nice “pop” and done. But the exhaust valves... I was able to get one finally, but not been able to get the last 3: when I try to really apply a lot of pressure, clamp slides on the valve, the “fork” slides on the spring retainer. The whole clamp starts to strain. So question to those who went there: any trick / advice / method / better tool (mine is the MM one) to pop out reluctant exhaust valves collet-retainers? ((Just to be clear: valves go up and down perfectly when shaft is turned. But the collets just do not want to pop, for me, for now...

[wristwister]

This is a new one to me! So you're saying you apply the spring compressor to the exhaust valve spring, compress it down, exposing the 2-piece retainer, and those retainer pieces are frozen onto the valve shaft?

[Surcouf]

This is a new one to me! So you're saying you apply the spring compressor to the exhaust valve spring, compress it down, exposing the 2-piece retainer, and those retainer pieces are frozen onto the valve shaft?

Not exactly: I install the compression tool one side on the bottom of the valve (obviously), the other side (the «*fork*») on top of the valve retaining washer, and I start to compress the tool. At that moment the spring is not compressing, because I am only applying a compression effort on 2 fixed points of the valve. It is the valve washer and the keepers that are being stuck on the valve stem.

I have found quite some discussions around the same issue on engines with*»*» over head «*«* valves such as Mustang etc... but it is much easier to break the salt/crust/corrosion because of the superior access in those.

I generously spread PB Blaster yesterday night, and will see tonight if situation is improved. But I welcome any other trick ....

[jcwright]

This post from Don Moyer on 5.27.17 may be of help:

"Over the years, varnish in the oil will occasionally "glue" the valve keepers inside the retaining washer and be quite difficult to remove them in worst cases, but you should not have to use heat. All I've ever had to do is pry the retaining washer up using a really big screwdriver (or some other pry bar) using the bottom of the valve chamber opening as a fulcrum while tapping the valve down from on top with a medium sized mallet. Once the keepers come free of the retaining washer they will fall out. Don"

[Surcouf]

This post from Don Moyer on 5.27.17 may be of help:

"Over the years, varnish in the oil will occasionally "glue" the valve keepers inside the retaining washer and be quite difficult to remove them in worst cases, but you should not have to use heat. All I've ever had to do is pry the retaining washer up using a really big screwdriver (or some other pry bar) using the bottom of the valve chamber opening as a fulcrum while tapping the valve down from on top with a medium sized mallet. Once the keepers come free of the retaining washer they will fall out. Don"

That is actually pretty smart!! Thank you very much, I will be trying that very soon and report!!

[Surcouf]

So with the appropriate technique, it is so much easier. Why can’t I find that in my own??

So as recommended by Don, I inserted whatever was of the appropriate size between casing and washer, pushing the valve up a few mm. 2-3 small hits on the valve with a small hammer and «*dong*», keepers are released!! 30 minutes sweating + swearing yesterday with no result.... in 5 minutes today they were all in their makeshift box.

Thank you jcwright for the perfect quote from Don!!!

And because a picture is worse many words...

[Surcouf]

And so now onto the next challenge... I have 2 bolts holding the flywheel cover that had just disappeared into rust. I need to remove these to change the flywheel cover gasket that was damaged when I removed the oil pan.
This is the result after working with hammers, chisels, screwdrivers during a good hour..

There is no way these 2 come out easily... what is your advice here? Straight to the Angle grinder here?

[wristwister]

Yeah, I had a similar situation with some blobs of metal that had once resembled bolt heads. Grind off the heads, remove the cover, and hope there's enough exposed bolt shank to attach the stud extractor to. Worked for me.

[JOHN COOKSON]

So with the appropriate technique, it is so much easier. Why can’t I find that in my own??
..

Walking is easy if you know how to do it. That is what this forum is all about - sharing knowledge.

TRUE GRIT