Leaking Carb..choke lever?!?!?

[sproption]

Hi All.

I am in need of advice.

Getting ready for a Sunday sail, I discovered to my horror, about 1 gallon of gasoline in my bilge.

I have a late model A-4 with Series 68 carburator.

I traced the fuel leak to somewhere in my carb. I have never taken off or maintained my carb since I purchased from PO two years ago.

I am on an Ericson-29 so my access to the carburator side of the engine ranges from extremely tight to nearly impossible to reach. (I will post some photos soon.)

I shut down my fuel valve at the fuel tank, soaked up what gas I could and shut off my electrical system.

After some 2 hours of observation and the use of mirrors, I came to the conclusion that the fuel leak seams to be coming from the Choke Lever. I thought it would be coming from the 1/8 pipe scavange tube connection or a gasket higher up, but no, it seems to be from the Choke Lever shaft/plate.

I am on the verge of removing my carburator all together, bring it home and address the leak issue (If I can).

Does anyone have experience with a leaky carburator in the Choke Lever area? Does this sound possible or right?

Thanks

Matt

[ArtJ]

I am wondering if you could have a stuck float valve. Have you tried
tapping on the carburetor bowl, or removing the bowl to check?

IF it comes to that Moyer sells rebuild kits for the carburetor.

Also do a search on this site for carburetor as there are many other
posts from more knowledgeable people than I .


Regards

[ndutton]

I'm thinking with that volume of leakage the problem has to be the float valve. It's either deteriorated or there's some debris in there preventing it from sealing and therefore allowing a siphon from the fuel tank. The carb needs to be removed and dismantled to get to the valve.

The visible area of leakage is where the fuel found a way out of the carb.

edit: Art beat me to the punch

[Al Schober]

If the carb is flooding, the gas is going to leak out the lowest point it can. I would expect it to leak out between the carb body and the flame arrestor, but if that has a good seal, then the choke shaft is next up.
Sounds like the float is no longer shutting off the float valve, and the bowl is overflowing. I would remove the carb (catching the gas) and rebuild it, including a new float valve. If you don't have a fuel filter inline, this would be a good time to add one.
Don't blow up your boat - be careful.

Al

[hanleyclifford]

shut of valve

You did not mention in your post but do you make a practice of shutting off the fuel at the tank each time you leave the boat? A good habit to get in to.

[hanleyclifford]

Before you go removing the carb and doing a rebuild try running the engine again and observing if the leak occurs while the engine is running. It is possible that a small piece of material got into that needle and seat and held it open so fuel could get by and over time get enough fuel into the carb to spill into the bilge. You did not mention if you have a second fuel filter just before the carb. Most of us do and this helps keep junk from getting to the carb. I suggest you install that second filter, turn on the fuel and run the engine again. The blockage may clear itself and you save money and aggravation.

[ndutton]

Gasoline spills

I second Al's caution, leaking gasoline is very dangerous business.

One of the first items I bought for my boat was a Xintrex fume sniffer that interfaces with the bilge blower. In the event of gasoline spillage, the sniffer alarms and automatically turns on the blower. I had occasion to accidentally test it the last time I replaced my fuel filter cartridge. I fumbled the old cartridge into the bilge upside down spilling its contents. Within 30 seconds the sniffer alarmed and the blower did its duty.

I leave the sniffer armed at all times, when I'm not there too. It's a sentinel that's on guard when I can't be.

[CalebD]

Another thing you can try is to drain your carb by removing the main passage plug if you can reach it. I think it is a 1/2" bolt at the aft end of the carb in this picture: http://www.moyermarine.com/360/r2z1.html A few ounces of fuel should leak out which you may be able to catch in a container. Sometimes this is enough to free up the float valve needle and seat.
Once you drain the carb a few gentle whacks with a screwdriver handle on the main carb bowl (just forward of the drain plug in pic) can also help dislodge a blockage. Eventually you'll have to remove the carb for a cleaning but hopefully not today.
I'll second what Hanley said about making it a practice of shutting off your main fuel valve (petcock) each time you leave your boat. If you leave your ignition keys hung on this valve then you will always remember to turn it on before starting the engine.

[sproption]

OK...wow. Thanks guys!

I do not have a second fuel filter...that was a winter to do.

Thanks for your hypothesis. Most of you came to the same conclusion, which really helps me! I will try to free without removing first.

I was in the habit of shutting off my fuel valve and running dry when I was done with my engine, when another A-4 owner told me that wasn't necessary. I will go back to that habit.

Matt

[sastanley]

Matt, it isn't necessary as long as something doesn't lodge itself into your float valve! - relying on the float valve to hold back all the fuel is bad practice...but likely your 'friend' hasn't been unlucky enough to experience what you just did!

To make this task easier, I added a 2nd fuel shutoff petcock in the engine compartment where I can reach it...as Caleb mentioned, the way I remember is to hang the key on it..I still have the original petcock on the fuel tank itself, but it is a pain to get to (under the galley, steps, drawers in the way, etc..) so adding another one at the main Racor fuel filter is much more convenient and gets used regularly. If the float valve fails, only the fuel in the line & carb would leak..a much easier cleanup.

[pallen58]

Lost in Kansas- Leaking carburetor

Last week I finished updating the fuel system. I ran the engine for 15 minutes and all was well. One minor leak at the shut off valve but all seemed good.
Saturday the skipper showed with some of her friends and wanted to go sailing. The engine started and ran 2 minutes with good indications and then died. Winds right so we just sailed in and out of the slip. Not long after we started the skipper said the was a very strong smell of gas. A quick check showed that we were leaking from the carburator. I too have an E29 and this is the one side of the engine you just can't get to or see. It leaked more when we heeled to port. We cut a beer can in half to capture gas and stayed on a starboard tack. Once back in the slip it kept up a slow drip. Fuel shut off was closed. I did not have a computer so I could not access the site. Not wanting to create a floating Malatov Cocktail I brought out my trusty manual and figured I need to take the carb off. Not knowing specifically, and it isn't labeled, I don't know if I did that 100% correctly. I was not sure what the throttle valve and and lever were. Or the choke lever valve. What I did was disconnect the fuel line, disconnected the throttle cable, choke cable and scavenger tube(?) I think that is what that tube is. I then undid the two bolts on the top and it came out. The whole carb and I now know the flame arrestor.
And there is no more fuel leaking in the boat.
The question is what do I do now?
I gather from the threads I can either clean it up or buy the kit.
I've never worked on a carb before so I am now at my absolute limit.
Here is a picture of the carb and flame arrestor.

[Will Jacocks]

Get the kit! I am sure you can find a good friend or two that would love to play with your carb and get it humming again!

[Mo]

Options.

That's an easy carb to work on even at home. I think one of the guys asked if you have a friend that's a bit of a gear head...if so, that would be perfect. You can rebuild it yourself though.

If you are really concerned bring it to a shop. A small engine repair guy could sort that out in about an hour...that would be your gasket faces all cleaned and new ones back in, jets cleaned and blown out with air, float and valve set up...all good to go.

Some new mechanics have never worked on carbs, however, the small engine guys do. Bring the manual and watch how he does it because the next time you get dirt etc you can do it. No gaskets sealers or compounds on those gaskets..put them in just as they are.

[Bold Rascal]

Had the same same concerns as you regarding an attempt at a rebuild. I bought the kit from MMI and it took about 4 hours. The kit comes with the same step by step instructions as found in the MMI overhaul manual. You can do it, just take your time.

[seascott]

I rebuilt mine. I think if I can do it, anyone can. Mine finally runs on the bench great. The carb is pretty simple.