Black Fuel in Carb....

[capnward]

That needle coming in at an angle on top is your idle adjustment screw. Turning it out leans the mixture. Usually it is turned out at least 1 full turn from the seat, often 1.5. Your setting of .5 is probably the reason your plugs are sooty. Try turning it out while it's running until it runs rougher, then back in until it sounds good. Moyer sells an extended needle so you can turn it with your fingers. https://moyermarine.com/product/idle...fcar_02-1_508/
Nobody's laughing, this is how you learn your engine. Here's your diagram, good luck!

[JOHN COOKSON]

. Try turning it out while it's running until it runs rougher, then back in until it sounds good. Moyer sells an extended needle so you can turn it with your fingers. !

Try adjusting the idle mixture a bit then engine idle speed a bit till you find the optimal settings for your engine.
Each engine is a bit different. You will need to experiment bit to find the optimal settings for your engine.

TRUE GRIT

[splashlog]

Well I have most of the day tommorrow to mess around with the set up. I did pull off the distro cap, and the contacts in there were pretty chowdery, also I realised when I got in that I have put the ignition wires incorrectly, thinking that #1 was at 6'OC and not the proper 9'OC. Expalins why I got NO turnover at all on the last attempt...
I have a momentary switch (bare wire and a screwdriver) that I will use as a remote to watch for sparks.
I have a can of compressed air and some more carb cleaner, and now thanks to you fine folks, a diagram that makes sense, so I will tear the carb appart again and giver annother scooping out.

Once again I really appreciate the input from all of you.

[splashlog]

I guess you guys are smarter than you look..
I installed my "ignition remote" in my quest for fire today.
So I have fire from the main coil. Held the high tension wire close to the block, did a quick crank and there was light. Not a crisp blue but a yellowish zap.
Reconnect the HT wire to the cap. pulled plug #1 with wire attached, grounded plug to block. No light show.
Plug # 2 same.
Pulled condenser off to test with cheap meter on boat. No continuity. No reading.
Took condenser home to test again with better meter, seems to be ok. Resistance climbs as charge builds up.
Anyone have a definitive way to test a condenser?
I'll make a quick trip tomorrow and see if I can pick up a replcament locally.
Anyone know if there is a specific type/size/rating?

[splashlog]

Or are we looking at a dying ignition coil?

[ndutton]

Ignition???

Back in the prehistoric days of ignitions we never bothered with troubleshooting individual components. When regular maintenance was due or if anything was suspect we replaced plugs, points, condenser, rotor and distributor cap as a single project.

A question though: how did we get here from black fuel in the carb?

[JOHN COOKSON]

Or are we looking at a dying ignition coil?

Unknown at the moment. A yellow spark is not good.

The first thing I would do is be sure there is enough voltage to the coil.

Take a voltage reading across the battery posts. Leave the probe on the battery ground then take voltage reading at coil +. Use a jumper wire if necessary.

You will test the ground side of the circuit as well as the voltage at coil + this way.

Have the points open or disconnect the wire at coil - so the coil does not get fried (or fried further?) while testing.

TRUE GRIT

[joe_db]

Needs to be fixed, but NOTHING related to the ignition can possibly change the color of the fuel.