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Thanks, Tac - I can see that the alternator output - the red positive wire - goes through an ammeter to what this schematic calls "volt div" which I agree must be the isolator - then from there to the batteries. So I can dispense with the "volt div" and tie those three red wires together and the alternator will send current to the two batteries?
"Your concern about having battery voltage at the alternator output when the engine is off is no problem" - OK, that's good, I don't have any need to put a toggle switch, which I have seen called a field disconnect switch, anywhere in the circuit.
One thing that is confusing me is looking at the schematic and it looks like the Selector Switch is not between the alternator and the batteries. It looks like the only thing the selector switch does is control whether one or the other or neither or both batteries supply voltage to the starter. But I won't worry about it unless I need to.
So my plan will be to install the new alternator and wire it just like the old one, but dispense with the isolator, tying the three red wires together. Then I should be able to set the Selector Switch to the fully-charged starting battery, start the engine and put a multimeter across the battery terminals and see the alternator output.
If I'm missing something or getting ready to harm the electrical system, please let me know. If I can get this boat back to the Pamlico, I'll have a competent mechanic go over the engine and get it in shape. As you can see, mechanical/electrical is not my forte. Thanks again for your patient help.
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