[Jon K]

Thanks Neil.

I'll do the following:

1. Test the coil resistance and post the results.

2. Try to find a cheap way to test the cooling system manifold pressure.

To do this I need to get some kind of pressure gauge into the system, and either run the engine and coolant pump to generate pressure or add a tire pump into the mix.

I'll have to see what I can do about finding a schraeder valve and coupling it into the cooling system to add a tire pump with a gauge, or another inexpensive alternative.

3. Yes, time to change the impeller. I have a spare from the previous owner but haven't replaced the impeller, just made sure I know where it goes and that I have tools to change it if necessary. I'll get a new one.

While thinking about this, I know there are two water pumps, the lower rear one has a grease cap that I should fill too. Do I need to service the coolant pump immediately?

4. My resistance to doing the carburetor rebuild is simply that, on my Ranger 28, the carb is located behind and below the access panel inside the cupboard beside the companionway stairs.

So I can see it from the cabin, and could possibly see my right hand going through the cupboard doorway, through the side access hatch and possibly reaching the carb with some kind of tools, since my head and arm don't both fit in the cupboard at the same time!

One of the strangest things I've seen in a while was the mechanic lying full-length inside the empty port cockpit locker, adjusting the gearbox. Quite a feat to get in and out I'm sure, and lots to bump your head on. The sole locker is usually chock-full of lines, fenders, boathook, ladder, shore power cable etc. I never considered it as an engine access method, but there you go.

I'll have to think through the carb work, at the very least take a good look at the manual to identify the screws and see if they can be adjusted without losing too much skin from my knuckles.

Thanks for the on-track advice.

- Jon