How often do you rebuild your carburetor?

[systemek]

On a related topic, I did a stupid thing on the last clean-out before Ensenada. The flared end from the scavenge tube broke off. I drove around San Diego for 3 hours trying to find a flare tool that would fit the copper tubing 1/16"? to no avail....I was tired and frustrated, so I ended up using a small blade, hand flaring it and then tightening onto the 1/8 nipple...worked great.

[ILikeRust]

I flared the end of the tube using a small phillips-head screwdriver tip. Just shoved it in there and spun it a bit.

[Dave Neptune]

Flared ends

I just converted to compression type fittings, no problem for the last 20 years or so. I even have a coil of 1/8" copper and extra farrel's in my ditty box! I use the 1/8 on my vac gage too so extra parts are ready for it to from the "ditty box".

Dave Neptune

[sastanley]

Shawn you know where I am if you need a second pair of eyes. If I remember my glasses that is. Dan S/V Marian Claire

Dan, thanks. I think we talked about this when you were in town. I just need to take the time to replace the filters, which I haven't done yet this year, then clean the carb, & I should be good to go. I always do things in the wrong order (clean the carb, and then do stupid stuff like leave known old/dirty filters in place because I am cheap) and then kick myself for it later. I know I should replace the filters to make sure I get clean gas to the carb...then clean it.

I just converted to compression type fittings, no problem for the last 20 years or so. I even have a coil of 1/8" copper and extra farrel's in my ditty box! I use the 1/8 on my vac gage too so extra parts are ready for it to from the "ditty box".

Dave Neptune

Dave, I have a hose barb on the end of my vac gauge...how do you get rid of that & turn it into a compression fitting? I even went and bought a roll of copper tubing.. I guess I need to do a little disassembly of the gauge. I have all the parts for the engine side, I just gotta figure out the gauge side now.

[Dave Neptune]

Gage Port?

Shawn, most gages have a 1/8 NPT port and I just go from there. When hooking up your vac gage using at least 2+ feet will help It greatly reduces the "bounce" at idle and will have no influence on the actual reading. I have and have seen vac test gages that are plumbed from the inside with a barb only, this is not a constant duty type gage~thus the barb. A small SW works quite well and at 2 1/16 diameter it can be fit and/or mounted most anywhere.

Dave Neptune

[sastanley]

Dave, I may have a non-constant duty gauge. It is a cheap combo vac/pressure gauge from Actron - CP7803

The way I had it hooked up before was a 90° barb on the other end of the hose that was 1/8" NPT male into the manifold.

Here's what I have now...the problem I recently noticed is I musta whacked it, the barb on the gauge is cracked.

Let's see if this pic works -



I see Sunpro makes a nice 2" vacuum gauge (CP7978)..I can pick it up for almost the same price locally as I can at Amazon..it has a 1/8"NPT connection.

Changing the subject, I also noticed my "Mr. Gasket" #1561 fuel pressure gauge reads about 1 PSI at rest..is there a way to zero these gauges out? It is a little unnerving to see 4+ PSI on the fuel pressure gauge..and I don't want to have to remember to scale it from 1 PSI, espcially if I am troubleshooting fuel issues.

[Dave Neptune]

Adjustments

Shawn, as far as adjusting don't bother the gage is relative to the preassure wupplied. So your gage is off 1 psi, as long as you know it no biggie!!!! I have seen people dissassemble and twiwst the needle and/or background with the numbers and it's not worth the trouble. I would trust it less after twisting than a gage that just wasn't zeroed. No biggie on a mechanical gage at all!!!!!!

Your scale should be fine just delete the one psi ole boy.

Dave Neptune

[Mark S]

Can't vote on this one because I never have rebuilt the carb. But see my post of this date in the NAPA coil thread. I'm taking it apart and cleaning it good, and if it needs a rebuild I'll do that, too. Then probably an annual clean and rebuild as necessary after that.

Mark S.

[sastanley]

Might as well talk about carbs here.

My "good" carb will not keep the engine running...so today I bolted on my 'backup' carb and it ran fabulously. I must have missed something on the 'good' carb.

Dave Neptune, I did not follow your advice and I ripped the fuel pressure gauge apart too...the cheap plastic lens over the gauge face does not like gasoline...it melts and clouds the lens, but I bent the little rod inside the gauge to read zero at zero PSI.

[Dave Neptune]

Fine

Shawn, no biggie~the gage should still work. I just "prefer" the smaller permanent for mounting ease and the ability to see when operating.

Let us know what you find in carb #1.

Dave Neptune

[positron]

I voted for "when she quits" but it is hard to say. I rebuilt my carb 2 years ago, after 2 years of boat ownership. Ethanol-degraded rubber hose particles were the main culprit. I installed a water filter and polishing filter and have not had problems since. If it starts to act up again, I think (hope!) that I can limp home, order the rebuild kit, and have it all working by the next weekend. Each time I go sailing, I run my engine for a good hour to get down the river and out to the bay, then another hour to get home. The more I run it the happier it is.

[Bold Rascal]

Annually?

I rebuilt the carb during my efforts to get the motor running after purchasing her late in 2011. Lil beastie has been running just fine ever since. I recently acquired another carb to keep as a spare and have rebuilt it as well.
2 rebuilds in 2 years however, I doubt I'll rebuild the primary for at least another 2 years or possibly longer.

[Mo]

Bold,

If my boat was in the water year-round and used regularly I don't think I'd be looking at pulling the carb apart and cleaning annually. The only reason I do it is because the boat is layed up for 5 months minimum...sometimes 6 months. For that reason, and that reason alone, I prefer to remove it and clean it out.

[Bob N]

From Road & Track

Dick O'Kane, a writer for Road & Track in the 70's, once said that "carburetor is a French word meaning 'leave it alone.'" (Of course, he was referring to the dastardly SU's installed in MG's and other Brit cars.) Still, they are words I have taken to heart.

[BunnyPlanet169]

More than I used to...

First - THANKS to all in this community that make it so easy to learn everything A4!

Just finished a 2 year refit prompted by fuel issues - I had everything that can go bad in a fuel system. Tank full of gunk from 40 years....carb full of gunk after 40 years....

Suffice to say, I was thrilled that my engine started beautifully last night, after taking a sawsall to the cockpit to pull the tank in 2011. Thanks again to the Forum, and Moyer Marine for providing such a valuable resource. Rebuilt carb, new electric fuel pump, big idle adjustment screw, oil pressure safety switch, oil drain kit, absolutely MAGIC extended bolt for the lower rear water pump....

So, how often? I'm thinking yearly and in the Fall, with the caveat that my entire fuel line will be dry from the tank outlet onward, and new big and in-line filters in the spring. I have continual problems with the newer fuel formulations in any small engine (except my weedwacker which seems impervious.) Outboard motor, chainsaw, generator, A4 all suffer from infrequent (not daily/weekly) usage and the gumming, varnishing, sticking that ensues. The only thing I haven't decided is whether or not to drain the tank and air it out, or fill the tank and keep the moisture trap on the vent. I'm leaning toward the former - in New England, our season is so short.