A little help

[SPNetricks]

Went to the boat today and did some engine work. Took a few pics to get some feedback on. The distributor has a cap with two screws (no clips), does that mean something? The distributor looks like EE, right? The rotor is a little pitted, but the inside of the cap looks good. Fairly new 8mm wires. Coil looks good, and has 4.1 ohms across it.
I'm working on giving it a tune up and a rewire. The engine was running but hard to start. I plan on checking the timing after the rewire and tune up. I tried to take the plate under the rotor off, but it was lifting the center rod up too. So I left it in place till I could get more info of what is going on.
I am open to any comments, questions, or advice about what you see in the pics or what I've said. Also the tube above the flame arrester is missing. ?

[JOHN COOKSON]

The engine was running but hard to start.

Check to be sure the choke is closing all the way.

TRUE GRIT

[tenders]

The antifouling paint is doing a good job keeping the barnacles off the rotor.

Hard starting: I would be thinking carburetor before timing.

[Dave Neptune]

SPN, the first thing I would do is eliminate the "trailer" style plug especially if doing any kind of a rewire. This will possibly eliminate any weak connections to which these plugs are notorious and pretty much worthless after corroding a bit.

RE the distributor does the centrifugal advance "pop back" when twisted? If so just replace the cap and rotor while being very careful as to the firing order of the wires. A fresh set of plugs (gap @ .040 with the EI) and be sure all connections are clean and well snugged.

As per John do be sure the choke is completely closing!! This is a must for good cold starting.

Check the "spark" and what you want is a spark that is crisp and blue that will pop at least 1/4". This will confirm the coil and the EI.

Dave Neptune

[SPNetricks]

I do want to remove all the wires (and there are a lot of them) and that plug before I clean the engine. The engine electronics should be isolated from the house electronics, other than charging possibly. I did not want to mess with the centrifuge until I did more research. That plate would not come out without removing it. I will check the choke and adjust if necessary as I work my way around the engine during this inspection. I just bought the boat a month ago and I am in the process of renovation it. The blue paint on the distributor was on there when I opened it up (I thought it might be marking something). I was surprised to see EE, everything else on the boat is from 1976. That is the first upgrade I have seen.

[ndutton]

1. The rotor looks shot to me. The perimeter contact tab appears to be sintered. If it's worn as it appears to be, so is the distributor cap.
2. Both the rotor and magnetic ring must be removed to remove the plate and access the advance mechanism beneath.
3. Deal with the plug wires one at a time.

These issues are important to a good running engine so please don't shy away from them. It is important in this case to do the work without removing the distributor.

[roadnsky]

...Also the tube above the flame arrester is missing. ?

Also called a "Slash Tube"
You can get one from MMI here on this site.
Although I searched the online catalogue and couldn't find it anywhere. (Bill?)
Maybe give Ken a call and he can get you one.

You can also, of course, make your own.

[Al Schober]

Here's a link to the breather tube:

https://moyermarine.com/product/breather-hose-late-model-oval_11_203/

[SPNetricks]

Thanks for the info. I'm a new A4 technician and an old sailor. This is my forth sailboat and first A4. The other sailboats had outboards and I got used to working on them. I will be going to the boat on Wednesday to do more inspecting and cleaning. The cart with MMI (so I get the right part) is getting full with the things I need, but I want to work my way to the other side of the A4 before ordering. I will also take more pictures. Personally, I like seeing other peoples A4's for a reference and comparison (plus I am going to need some before and after shots).

[JOHN COOKSON]

If you do not have a copy of the Moyer Manual then add that to your "cart" also unless you've done that already.

TRUE GRIT

[alcodiesel]

Tenders: "The antifouling paint is doing a good job keeping the barnacles off the rotor."- so witty for so young you are

[zellerj]

The fact that the distributor cap has screws instead of clips means that it is a marine cap. It is not kosher to have a clip dizzy cap on a boat.

[Sam]

Being of Greek decent I am certainly not kosher but my thinking is as follows: A4's w/ screw on dizzy caps are later model w/ Delco distributors. Smaller "clip on" caps are for Prestolite distributors on early model A4's, around 1969 and before. The Prestolite dizzy has the condenser screwed to the outside, Delco incorporated into the inside plate.

[SPNetricks]

Well I went back to the boat today and worked on the engine. I cleaned it up and took off the nest of wires. (also the "trailer" plugs) A new rotor, cap, and plugs are in the order from Moyer coming tomorrow. Take a look at the plugs I pulled out. They are in order 1 thru 4. The first plug was tight, the second was snug, the third was a little more than hand tight, and the forth was hand tight. Thats what it felt like when I removed them with the spark plug wrench. Also look at the rust on the bottoms....not good. I hosed the openings with WD40 and vacuumed it out with the wet vac. Then dumped about a half a shot of MMO in the hole and spun the engine by hand. I cleaned the plugs with a wire brush and replaced them hand tight just to cover the holes till the new plugs come in. By the end of the day I had MMO coming out of the carburetor at the flame arrestor. (which was removed and cleaned, but not put back cause I need new screws for it) For those of you who suggested that I check the choke for the cause of starting troubles, kodo's to you. The choke was not staying closed and would snap back to open because of the spring that was attached to it. I removed the spring and adjusted it to working order. One last thing, these are the original gauges (see pic) does anyone know who makes them? Thanks in advance for any comments, concerns, statements, help, or questions.

[roadnsky]

One last thing, these are the original gauges (see pic) does anyone know who makes them?

IF you are looking to replace those gauges (which I certainly would) then why not use the gauges offered on this website by our host?
Easy drop in replacements and they work.
I've had mine for over 10 years now with perfect performance.