not so running. Or starting.

[roadnsky]

I'm in agreement with Tom that at minimum a carb cleaning is needed.

Are you sure that the CHOKE is closing when you try to start?
You need to remove the Flame Arrester to actually see if it's closed.

Also, have you tried adjusting the fuel mixture?
An over lean mixture could cause a hard or no start.

Lastly, on that Main Passage Plug, there should be a washer (see pic)
IF that's missing, you would have found your air leak I'd think.

[smosh]

Trying to pics...not easy from an iPhone...

The bolt does not have a rubber washer. Looks like someone put some sealant around the threads that’s falling apart now.

[Al Schober]

Time to play this fiddle again - if it doesn't roar for a few seconds with starting fluid, you have a spark issue. You say you have spark. Check the timing.
You're chasing fuel - I think you're beating the wrong horse.

[smosh]

Hello again, all -

I've made some progress, but still no starting/running.

Basically, at this point the new electric fuel pump is not receiving power from the ignition coil. It will operate when connected directly to the battery. I bypassed the 'new' wiring, fuse, and OPSS with a test lead, connecting the pump directly to the positive of the ignition coil, does not work.

I did replace the coil, and there is spark. If I fire up the pump and fill the carburetor, the motor will combust, just has no fuel supply to fully fire up.

A few weeks ago, i DID get it running by jumping the coil to constant power. Ran great for 45 minutes, but would not restart later that day.


Thoughts on why the fuel pump isn't getting power from the coil?

[Dave Neptune]

Smosh, if there is sealer around the "jet plug" there could easily be some floating around inside or lodged in the carb. Sealers of any kind are not recommended on carbs for that reason!

Since you say it makes some temp in the exhaust but won't run also sounds like ignition and I don't mean spark. Check again for proper plug wiring and are you SURE the timing has not been moved? The heat should be in the cylinders and not in the exhaust. If the timing is lazy it can be firing just before the E valve opens not just after it closes.

Dave Neptune

[smosh]

thanks, Dave - if the fuel pump is not even operating when powered from the coil, isn't the problem even earlier in the process?

[smosh]

Dave, i'm thinking maybe you saw my 5/22 post above and thought it might be the corroding seal.

Since that post (and i mistakenly thought i'd already added to the thread) I ordered and installed a new carburetor from Moyer Marine. So now it's got the electric fuel pump and a new carburetor.

[Dave Neptune]

Smosh, I can't recommend a CHEAP inline fuel pressure gage mounted just before the carb.

Dave Neptune

[TomG]

smosh,

Just to clarify, with the fuse and OPSS bypassed and the pump connected directly to the coil, the pump doesn't work (with the ignition switch ON, obviously)?

What's your start switch set up? Twist key? Pushbutton with separate master?

[smosh]

Yes, Tom, ignition on, pump direct to coil.

It’s a key...three posts three positions. There’s an ammeter, water temp, and an oil pressure gauge in the panel so the wiring to the key isn’t simple.

[JOHN COOKSON]

Basically, at this point the new electric fuel pump is not receiving power from the ignition coil. It will operate when connected directly to the battery. I bypassed the 'new' wiring, fuse, and OPSS with a test lead, connecting the pump directly to the positive of the ignition coil, does not work.
il?

If you don't have a VOM (volt ohm meter) or the equivalent you will need to buy or acquire one.
Step 1: Can you read "12 volts" at coil + when the ignition switch\key is in the on position?
Step 2: With the wire to the OPSS\fuel pump connected to coil + can you read 12 volts at the distal (OPSS) end when the switch\key is on?
Remember: The OPSS will not pass electricity to the fuel pump until the engine starts and the oil pressure is up.

TRUE GRIT

[TomG]

This is very puzzling.

You have a spark, so we know you have power to the coil, yet the pump isn't working with the OPSS bypassed, but DOES work connected straight to the battery.

I'd definitely do as John suggests and check voltage at the coil. If you have 12ish volts at the coil, you should have enough oomph to run the pump (unless internal wire corrosion/wire size has created a significant voltage drop?)

Hopefully the smart kids will have some more ideas. I'm very curious what your coil voltage is.

[edwardc]

If its a Facet fuel pump, another possibility is the (infamous) "stuck ball" problem. The Facet has an internal ball and spring check valve. For some as-yet unknown reason, this ball can become partially or fully "stuck" to its seat when left unused for a longish time.

In the partially stuck position, a small amount of fuel gets by, enough to start and run at idle for quite a while, but quickly dies at higher throttle. In the fully stuck position, it won't even start once the float bowl runs dry.

This spring, I had this happen again at spring commissioning. It's the third time, on two separate Facet pumps, over the course of 8 years.

Fortunately, the diagnostic and short-term fix is quite simple. The bottom of the pump is a bayonet-style twist-off, with a 15/16" nut-shaped boss. Once removed (have a container ready to catch the gas), the bottom of the check valve ball is accessible. Simply press on it gently with a fingertip. It should move up smoothly. If its stuck, a little more force will cause it to break free with a perceptible "click" and then operate smoothly.

Unfortunately, my experience has been that once it starts to stick, it will do so again, the only long-term fix being a new pump.

[JOHN COOKSON]

I'd definitely do as John suggests and check voltage at the coil. If you have 12ish volts at the coil, you should have enough oomph to run the pump (unless internal wire corrosion/wire size has created a significant voltage drop?)
coil voltage is.

My best guess at the moment is that the fuse is blown or not making contact inside the holder. I can only guess because I'm sitting in front of computer, not on the boat and not doing any diagnostics myself..........


TRUE GRIT

[smosh]

I will measure coil voltage. I believe we did that this past weekend, but i can't say 100% for sure what it was. (i was up in the cockpit with the key)

To measure the voltage at the coil, positive lead on the tester on the coil +, and negative tester lead grounded to the block, or to the negative on the coil?

John, completely bypassing the fuse and 'new' wiring, still doesn't work. The fuse looks ok anyway, and i had initially made sure it was seated and all connections to the new Facet were good...new connectors, good crimp, etc.

I hope to get out to the boat this afternoon to test it out.