Quote:
Originally Posted by ndutton
When I replace my tank I'll have a hard look at the Moeller cross linked polyethylene tanks. Shawn Stanley has one in his boat and his experience has been favorable.
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I have been happy with mine.
I agree with the others on fuel. Here is my almost infamous saying around here....topping off a tank that contains 5 gals of bad fuel now gives you a full tank of bad fuel, and fuel system treatments never fix already existing issues.. Neil touched on the issues already, so no need to repeat. You cannot 'fix' bad/water contaminated/yucky ethanol laced fuel..
Burn all the old fuel first, or discard it, so you are dealing with fresh fuel. If you add new fuel filters to the mix, you'll also likely burn through those $$ filter elements that cost far more than the few gallons of bad fuel you are trying to salvage. Don't bother replacing the filters until you are done with the old fuel and are burning fresh.
Glad you got it running, all downhill from here. Do you have a temp gauge? What part of the t-stat is "not working"? Stuck open/closed/filled with gunk, etc?
edit - oh...you asked about the little primer on the mechanical fuel pump...100 is a little excessive, but you might need that many to prime thru a filter,etc. There is a pushrod on the camshaft that moves the pump diaphragm in the pump housing..the handle allows you to actuate the diaphragm from the outside for priming...if the pushrod is in the extended position and keeping the diaphragm from moving, you'll feel no resistance on the handle..you should feel some in one direction of travel when pulling fuel/air (there are a couple little springs inside that provide the resistance if the diaphragm is moving freely.) If you are not feeling resistance, try bumping the motor with the key, or turn the motor it by hand if you have a flywheel crank, to reposition the pushrod and allow the diaphragm to fully articulate with the handle.