not so running. Or starting.

[smosh]

Zero volts at the coil. Noooooooo...

[TomG]

Zero volts at the coil. Noooooooo...

That explains a lot.

This is good in a way. Now you know where to look to solve the problem!

[JOHN COOKSON]

Zero volts at the coil. Noooooooo...

Next you will need to check the voltage at the terminal on the key\switch that supplies electricity to the coil when it is in the on position. Probably a purple wire.
While taking the reading tap on the key\switch with a screwdriver handle to see if there is there is an intermediate connection inside it.
This way you will know it the problem is with the key\switch or the wiring.
We're getting closer.

TRUE GRIT

[smosh]

Next you will need to check the voltage at the terminal on the key\switch that supplies electricity to the coil when it is in the on position. Probably a purple wire.
While taking the reading tap on the key\switch with a screwdriver handle to see if there is there is an intermediate connection inside it.
This way you will know it the problem is with the key\switch or the wiring.
We're getting closer.

TRUE GRIT

Back into it. Finallly have time to push through, hopefully.

I connected up a new switch. Tested across from batt to both the start post and ignition post: 12v. Ran test wire from ignition post to positive on coil. No voltage at coil. Negative from coil goes to the distributor....do I have a ground issue on there?

Was feeling like I was getting somewhere. Switch is ok, and I’ll say wiring from switch to coil should be ok.

[JOHN COOKSON]

Your engine will not start or run until you can read "12" volts at coil + when the key is the run position.
Coil - is not a ground. The grounding takes place inside the distributor when the points (or EI) are in the closed position - this allows electricity to flow through the primary windings of the coil. When electricity stops flowing through the primary coil windings (points open) the secondary winding spits out a mighty bolt of high voltage electricity which fires the spark plug.

TRUE GRIT

[tenders]

Is it possible that when you replaced the cap last year that the little grounding wire to the electronic ignition that slinks out of a little notch under that cap got misdirected away from the notch and minced? Or that the cap you used doesn’t have the notch at all?

I haven’t replaced my cap in a while but I forget if that notch is pre-cut on new caps, or if I had to carve it out myself with a Dremel or rigging knife.

The integrity of that wire is critical to the functioning of the EI. There might even be two of those wires, I forget.

[Antibes]

Moyer does sell caps with the notch. There are two wires coming out and a little rubber sleeve that should line up with the notch. Just took mine apart yesterday to oil the advance mechanism

[smosh]

tenders - i don't think i have electronic ignition?

this is the bottom of the distributor...points and condenser.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/jye1bR6RhxsxMsXP8

I probably should have ordered new guts for this...

[smosh]

so, I can test the coil if i run a test lead from the - of the coil to the block. That will isolate the coil, or the workings inside the distributor.


That's the complete circuit... battery to keyswitch --> coil + ---> coil - ---> points ----> ground?

[Al Schober]

The coil isn't so simple. The high voltage lead will throw a spark to the block, but the return path to the coil is through the points and condenser. I haven't tried it, but you may be able to get it to throw a spark to the negative terminal on the coil.

[roadnsky]

tenders - i don't think i have electronic ignition?

this is the bottom of the distributor...points and condenser.
I probably should have ordered new guts for this...

(Picture posted for you)
You should certainly replace the points and condenser and set the gap.
I'd brighten up that rotor tip as well.

IF this were my vessel, I'd consider replacing the whole dizzy...

[smosh]

what we did, or verified, today:

cleaned up the points and the wire ends, putting new connectors on.

put new connectors on the leads, positive and negative, going to the ignition coil

tested spark: strong spark

fuel pump does not pull power from the coil positive terminal (where Moyer instructions say to connect)

Fuel pump DOES run if direct to battery.

Motor does crank over (so battery power is getting to the switch, and to the solenoid) And spark is strong.

Tested voltage across coil: zero. Tested from positive on coil to engine ground: zero.

Swapped the old coil back in.

Connected a constant power directly to the coil positive (alligator clip lead from the power at starter the coil), the fuel pump operates and the motor fires up and runs! Runs well!

While it was running, tested voltage across ignition coil + to - : fluctuating 1 to 2 volts or so.

Let it run for a while....then turned it off by pulling that alligator clipped lead.

Tried to start it again and will not start.

So that's where I'm at.

I am planning on replacing the points and condenser. Or can i just upgrade to electronic by using the Petronix "ignitor" for $112?

[tenders]

Wow. I think the electronic ignition is a huge upgrade, but I wouldn't be putting new electronic parts into this setup that might get shorted out until you figure out what is the problem with the existing configuration.

You got her running by directly connecting the coil + to the battery +, so there is nothing significantly wrong with ANY of the components. Seems to me this is a wiring or connection problem, no?

[ndutton]

Tested from positive on coil to engine ground: zero. . . . .Connected a constant power directly to the coil positive (alligator clip lead from the power at starter the coil), the fuel pump operates and the motor fires up and runs! Runs well!

In agreement with Tenders previous post, this is clear indication of an ignition circuit wiring problem. All the parts in place (points, condenser, rotor, distributor cap, coil) are functioning properly so replacing them will not address the no start/run problem.

fuel pump does not pull power from the coil positive terminal (where Moyer instructions say to connect)

Yes it does. It's just that you have no power to coil +.

Tested voltage across coil: zero. . . . . While it was running, tested voltage across ignition coil + to - : fluctuating 1 to 2 volts or so.

This test, between the two small coil posts, provides zero useful information and only tends to confuse the troubleshooting. The (-) post on the coil is not a ground. I'd much rather the convention was to identify it as a "D" terminal (for Distributor) but it's unfortunately not.

Chase down the ignition wire from the keyswitch to the coil, every inch of it by testing for voltage to a solid ground with the key on (coil disconnected for testing please). The first test is on the "I" terminal of the keyswitch.

[tenders]

Neil’s last sentence EXACTLY. You are going to find some dumb little thing that is broken, or corroded, or loose, or misconnected (ie, coil wire connected to “start” terminal on keyswitch instead of “run” terminal) that has been the source of all this angst.

What led you to decide to hotwire the coil? That was a good idea.