Winter rebuild

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  • wristwister
    Senior Member
    • Nov 2013
    • 166

    #31
    Are you planning to work with an engine machine shop on this? If so, I'd suggest you have them take a look at the block and advise. If they don't see any obvious show stoppers, they'll probably recommend hot tank and magnaflux. That will strip away the crud, and identify if there's any cracking.

    Assuming it passes that, you may want to have them measure the cylinder bores for wear and taper. Depending on what they find there, they may recommend boring, sleeving, or just a quick hone if everything's in spec. If they bore, you'll probably need new oversize pistons.

    Assuming all that is fine, they'll probably suggest decking it (fly cut on top to assure perfect flatness for the cylinder head).

    Oh, and chances are after you pull the crankshaft you won't like the looks of the journals. Machine shop can freshen those up, but then you'll probably need oversize crank bearings.

    All this stuff is available through Moyer, and Don will appreciate you helping him make his next Porsche payment!

    Welcome to the club!
    Last edited by wristwister; 12-28-2018, 05:18 PM.
    "A ship in the harbor is safe ... but that's not what ships are built for.

    Comment

    • sastanley
      Afourian MVP
      • Sep 2008
      • 6986

      #32
      Koerk, I know you are out to sea, so you may not see this for a bit, but the nice thing is at least you can get all the parts from Moyer. I used to be scanning the interwebs for blocks, but now (even though they are not cheap from MMI) at least they are available. I am running an MMI manifold on my engine.
      -Shawn
      "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109
      "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!)
      sigpic

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      • Koerk
        Senior Member
        • May 2018
        • 20

        #33
        Thanks for everything.

        I have perused the recent posts, thank you for all the help and advice. I have decided the best thing to do going forward is to strip it all down and just have a machine shop check the block for cracks and then move forward from there. If its not viable I'll be installing a new westerbeke 3.5 kW gas genset and go electric drive. I can't wait to get back at it in February. Happy New year to all!. Cheers!

        PS: She is raw water cooled and has only been run in salt water off the coast of Nova scotia.
        Last edited by Koerk; 01-04-2019, 11:36 PM.

        Comment

        • Mo
          Afourian MVP
          • Jun 2007
          • 4468

          #34
          Nova Automotive could check it all out for you. They've also rebuilt a few as well that I know of.
          Mo

          "Odyssey"
          1976 C&C 30 MKI

          The pessimist complains about the wind.
          The optimist expects it to change.
          The realist adjusts the sails.
          ...Sir William Arthur Ward.

          Comment

          • Koerk
            Senior Member
            • May 2018
            • 20

            #35
            Back at it again.

            Good day, gentlemen. I am now back to work stripping the engine bare. Thanks to Mo. I have been in talks with a local machine shop regarding hot tanking and checking the viability of the block.

            So far I have only removed the aft housing and reversing gear, Exposing all the drive gears for the cam shaft, crank shaft, oil pump, and accessory drive.

            With the pistons still siezed in the cylinder. I'm wondering if I should continue and attempt to free the pistons now or move forward tearing the crank out and then the cam and finally free the pistons. I'm curious as to your oppions as I'm leaning for the route that yeilds the most progress durring my short time home.

            Cheers.
            Attached Files

            Comment

            • joe_db
              Afourian MVP
              • May 2009
              • 4474

              #36
              Take the crank out first. Then you can whack the pistons one at a time
              Joe Della Barba
              Coquina
              C&C 35 MK I
              Maryland USA

              Comment

              • lat 64
                Afourian MVP
                • Oct 2008
                • 1964

                #37
                There a few stories on this forum of motors worse than yours being revived. But those projects were usually done by some well-experienced mechanics. The labor bill for shop work is different for them.
                I would be cautious about going off the deep end with a project when there are often running engines or better rebuildable cores to be had for anywhere from $500 to $1500. A running engine is NOT a guarantee, but repairs can be assessed more completely.

                The economics of restoring a poor core can be a deal breaker. Keep a weather eye on the market for other donor engines, and stay off the the lee shore of a costly rebuild budget.

                Cheers,
                Russ

                Just saw this today:




                .
                sigpic Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1

                "Since when is napping doing nothing?"

                Comment

                • Koerk
                  Senior Member
                  • May 2018
                  • 20

                  #38
                  Originally posted by lat 64;115804)
                  The economics of restoring a poor core can be a deal breaker.
                  Thanks for the heads up. I have been watching the bottom line closely, If it amounts to being a lemon after consulting the machine shop I will probably look for a small gen set and convert to electric propulsion.

                  Comment

                  • Koerk
                    Senior Member
                    • May 2018
                    • 20

                    #39
                    Oil pan removal

                    Moving ahead today I have removed the oil pan, to expose the crank, upon early inspection there is corrosion in the cylinders. Number 4 was the worse while #1 remains pretty much clean, this was to no surprise as I knew water had entruded into my number 4 cylinder, while cranking with my seacock open. Rookie mistake.
                    Attached Files

                    Comment

                    • ndutton
                      Afourian MVP
                      • May 2009
                      • 9601

                      #40
                      Have you established a not-to-exceed budget for this project yet?
                      Neil
                      1977 Catalina 30
                      San Pedro, California
                      prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
                      Had my hands in a few others

                      Comment

                      • joe_db
                        Afourian MVP
                        • May 2009
                        • 4474

                        #41


                        You might start with something like this instead of your block.
                        Joe Della Barba
                        Coquina
                        C&C 35 MK I
                        Maryland USA

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