V drive to straight drive

[bruce warren]

I have a atomic 4 with regular transmission. Motor has a knock. So got a nother motor but it has a v drive . My question is can I use the shaf of the old transmission to go to straight drive? If that makes any sense to anybody.

[edwardc]

No, the V-drive engine has a special splined tailshaft designed to fit into the V-drive itself. If your old reversing gear assembly is still good, the easiest thing is to swap the whole assembly. This way you get the correct tailshaft. Replacing just a tailshaft is a much harder job.

[Al Schober]

Ed has it right. I've done this job - not hard. Just keep all the rotating parts of the transmission together. Take your direct drive transmission and transplant it complete into the replacement engine.
You'll have to get the top off the transmission. In addition to the bolts, there are a pair of dowel pins to the block - helps a lot to drive these out then replace them later. Keep the transmission cover mated to the block - just swap the internals.
While in there, I recommend you install Moyer's stainless shifter shaft (no more corrosion of that piece!).

[Rando1201]

Are there any posts or parts in the manual to refer to for making the swap?

[Al Schober]

Removal of the reversing gear is covered in the Moyer Manual under Major Overhaul - Part 3, steps 1 thru 4. Do this removal for both engines. You'll end up with two housings and two rotating assemblies (plus a bunch of misc. parts).
The rotating stuff from the old V-drive engine will get installed into the new engine. The new engine gets it's original housing - don't switch housings.
Reassembly is covered in Major Overhaul - Part 6. Read 'General' and steps 3 thru 8 (don't skip over IMPORTANT NOTE.
If a gasket gets damaged, you'll need a bit of extra sealant (permatex 2a).

[Rando1201]

Removal of the reversing gear is covered in the Moyer Manual under Major Overhaul - Part 3, steps 1 thru 4. Do this removal for both engines. You'll end up with two housings and two rotating assemblies (plus a bunch of misc. parts).
The rotating stuff from the old V-drive engine will get installed into the new engine. The new engine gets it's original housing - don't switch housings.
Reassembly is covered in Major Overhaul - Part 6. Read 'General' and steps 3 thru 8 (don't skip over IMPORTANT NOTE.
If a gasket gets damaged, you'll need a bit of extra sealant (permatex 2a).

So in a sense all I am doing is swapping out the reversing gear assembly? Right?

[Al Schober]

Yep! Replacing the entire rotating assembly is the easiest way I've found to do that job.
Need I say again, don't swap the housings. Things won't line up.

[Rando1201]

Yep! Replacing the entire rotating assembly is the easiest way I've found to do that job.
Need I say again, don't swap the housings. Things won't line up.

Thanks again. I am working on backing out the adjusting nut. Just wanted to clarify. Is the ramp plate the mechanical piece off to the right in this photo?

[Rando1201]

Thanks to Moyer forum, the manual, and especially AL I was able to wrap my head around what needed to be done!! Its a really simple job!! So stoked right now!

[tenders]

If I couldn't see the bits of gunk around the perimeter of the casing, I'd say that mechanism looks like it rolled out of the factory last month.

[Rando1201]

If I couldn't see the bits of gunk around the perimeter of the casing, I'd say that mechanism looks like it rolled out of the factory last month.

Yea pretty nice. It's nice to see the inside of the oil pan too considering there is surface rust on the block.

[tenders]

The oil pan is ridiculously thick and not prone to failure. I was terrified when I bought my boat in 1991 that the flakes/sheets of rust that were pulling off from the bottom of the pan would go right through. In fact this was a major reason for getting the engine rebuilt in 1993. Ha ha ha! The rust barely marked the bottom of the pan, and, it turns out, used replacement pans are very easy to find in part because they don't fail.

[Rando1201]

The oil pan is ridiculously thick and not prone to failure. I was terrified when I bought my boat in 1991 that the flakes/sheets of rust that were pulling off from the bottom of the pan would go right through. In fact this was a major reason for getting the engine rebuilt in 1993. Ha ha ha! The rust barely marked the bottom of the pan, and, it turns out, used replacement pans are very easy to find in part because they don't fail.

Thanks. I'm getting more and more stoked

[Rando1201]

Great news the reversing gear matches up to my replacement motor. Can I get away with the old gaskets and permatex?

[Rando1201]

Here she is lined up
Edit will post picture from desktop