Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Neptune
Joe, I too have found old impellers laying around in the past. The last couple of changes I bought 2 new ones and discarded the rest. When it is time to "rebuild" do to time not a calamity I discard the spare and buy 2 new ones and repeat. The spare was for "trash and/or calamity"  only.
Go for the EI, I ran it for over 30 years and not a single failure!!!! Pay attention to voltages and use a resistor. I like the Indigo better only for the indicator lite that lets you know it is "switching  ".
Why do you want a return line? If it is for polishing I would just add a separate pump, filter and lines. The A-4 does not need a lot of pressure or volume and so should be separated IMHO.
I have seen a few electric chokes adapted and they were a PIA to get right if they used a "heater". The plain ole OFF/ON solenoid type do not add any richness like you can add with a mechanical choke and the ole mechanical may just keep you running and out of trouble sometime. Go mechanical and keep it simple.
Dave Neptune  |
Here is the deal with the return line- My aborted FWC experiments had the engine hitting 180-190 on a hot day at cruise power or above. This is not too hot for the engine, but it was for the fuel system. After 2-3 hours of heatsoak, the fuel pressure would get erratic. At first it would drop and quickly return, and then progress to longer drops and more time at 0. Eventually it would be bad enough the engine could quit. This never happens with RWC and a much cooler engine. I rigged an experimental return line once and bleeding some gas back to the tank would solve this issue.
So if I ever want to run FWC again, I can either figure out a better system that can hold about 120-130 degrees on a hot day at full power or have a way to bleed some gas back.
Third choice would I guess be find out exactly what is up with this, but it has defied easy fixes. Getting rid of my dual fuel pump assembly was a big help, less metal mass to soak up heat maybe???