Electric Fuel Pump 4-7psi.

[edwardc]

It seems to idle too high as well now that I have run it up and really warmed it up. I tried leaning it out to reduce RPM at idle but that was inconsistent. Is there any other way to reduce RPM's at idle? If my new tach is reading correctly it is idling in N at 1100 RPM. The idle screw it backed right off.

When you say "the idle screw is backed right off", do you mean the idle mixture screw or the idle stop screw on the throttle lever?

Assuming you've got the idle stop screw set properly, this would suggest an air leak in the carb. If you have a PCV valve, check that for proper operation too.

[roadnsky]

To go along with Ed's comments, here is a Carb drawing.
Also, you might want to watch Don's Tech Tip on troubleshooting the carb

[Captain Crunch]

Ed,

The idle stop screw is backed right off. The idle mixture screw seems to be set right at about 3/4 of a turn open from closed. I will try some sealant around the front of the carb, I have a 4 bolt carb. Should I have applied sealant to the carb gasket as well? Seemed risky so I didnt. I will also re tighten the carb to manifold bolts. PCV is operating correctly, I think. I can blow air through it one way.

Joe,

I don't have a vacuum gauge. Its coming though. I'm looking at going with the EWDS set up as well. Max DATA.

All,

Any idea about the lever on the EI module? Should I be setting the gap of the EI module to the magnet ring with this lever in the mid position and then fine tune from there with the lever while the motor is running?

Thanks Guys.

CC

[ndutton]

How carefully/precisely have you set the timing? By what method?

[Captain Crunch]

ndutton,

I didn't do anything to the timing, other then playing with that little lever on the side of the new Pertronix ignitor EI module. The hot spark EI that I took out didn't have one of those micro adjusting levers. I'm still a little unclear about what that thing does, micro adjusts timing?

Should I have adjusted the clearance from the EI module to the magnet ring with the lever in the center position so there was play on either side?

The motor started up surprisingly quick considering what I did. It ran as good as always, except for elevated rpm's at idle after it was warmed up. Explosive acceleration in N just as Don has stated it should do. I have not power adjusted the timing ever since I have owned the boat. Hoping to do that tomorrow and see if I can get a few more RPM's out of it. I was under the impression that when you did the power timing adjustment you were as precise as it gets and that sets the stage for how the motor runs in all conditions. All the videos suggest that things are timed pretty good considering how well it runs and starts.

Can tweeking the timing be done with the lever that is on the EI module plate? Should I be adjusting distributor position for best idle rpm then power adjusting the timing and leaving it at that?

Thanks!

CC

[ndutton]

My opinion is the timing is best set with a timing light. When I finally dialed my timing in with a light I was able to adjust to a much lower idle.

I have Pertronix EI too but no lever as you describe so I can't be of help there.

[ronstory]

Do you have a pic of the "EI lever"? It could just be me, but that is not ringing a bell with my pertronix installations.

[edwardc]

Ed,

The idle stop screw is backed right off. The idle mixture screw seems to be set right at about 3/4 of a turn open from closed. I will try some sealant around the front of the carb, I have a 4 bolt carb. Should I have applied sealant to the carb gasket as well? Seemed risky so I didnt. I will also re tighten the carb to manifold bolts. PCV is operating correctly, I think. I can blow air through it one way.

It really sounds like a vacuum leak to me. As you know, one of the trouble spots is the front of the join seam on a 4-bolt carb. Another one is the seals around the choke & throttle shafts. An easy way to test is to shoot small amounts of starter fluid (using the little red "straw" to direct it) on each of the suspected areas while idling. A change in RPM will confirm a leak.

The PCV valve is a bit more complex than a one-way valve. In the direction that it allows flow, it should only permit flow with a small pressure differential, progressively sealing off at a higher pressure differentials. (see diagram) To test if the PCV valve is your problem, try blocking off the PCV hose by clamping it. You will have to increase the idle mixture up to about 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 turns to make up for the air that was coming thru the PCV.

[Captain Crunch]

Got her dialed in!

All,

After setting/adjusting the timing, mixture screw, idle adjust screw, and throttle cable, I have the A4 purring.

It reliably idles at 800 RPM, idles in gear at 600 RPM, throttles up super smooth in F in the slip to 1900 RPM WOT. Sounds better then ever!

I suspect I will get more RPM moving through open water. Prop and bottom could be cleaner as well. I'm also planning on swapping out the prop for an Indigo, but thats pretty far down on the list.

Is there a better prop to use then the Indigo?

Plugs are nice and grey instead of soot, and blow by has been reduced to almost nothing.

Attached is a picture of the timing adjusting lever that came with my new Pertronix ignitor EI. Super convenient.

Thanks for all the help and advice!

My fingers are crossed for tomorrow's sea trial.

CC

[ronstory]

While I believe that moving the lever would change the timing a bit, I believe it is there for setting the gap between EI module and magnetic ring.

I just it's just a matter of perspective. ;^)

I could be the camera angle, but in the photo your gap looks really tight, but if it's not touching and it works....

[Administrator]

This "lever" isn't familiar to any of us at MMI. Where did you get this EI?

Bill

[Captain Crunch]

Hi Bill,

This is a Pertronix Ignitor for 4 cylinder off the shelf at my local Lordco auto parts store here in Victoria, B.C., Canada.

The action on it didn't seem to change the gap between the EI module and the magnet ring. The EI module swung around the radius of the magnet ring. It made for finger tip adjustments to the timing.


CC.

[ndutton]

I found it or at least something close

Here it is on a 6 cylinder Pertronix EI. It's simply a modified base plate. My only concern is what it does to the ignition protection requirement for our distributor.

https://www.amazon.com/PerTronix-1162A-Ignitor-Cylinder-Advance/dp/B000JUZJU2

A little more searching turned up a 4 cylinder model. Note that both mention vacuum advance.

https://pertronix.com/pertronix-91144a-ignitor-ii-adaptive-dwell-control-delco-4-cyl-with-vacuum-advance.html#.XsqMC0RKj6o

[Captain Crunch]

For vacuum advance.

I get it now...used for vacuum advance. Sure is handy for fine tuning timing without sticking a wrench down into a hot engine though.

I'll let you know if it has a tendency to creep. I marked its position.

Has anyone retro fitted vacuum advance to an A4?

Another question:

Do electric fuel pump usually tick when operating. Mine seems to get pretty loud when idling. If I accelerate it will quiet down. Only when I slow down does it become louder.

It did this when I first jumped out the pump to prime the system before starting. It seemed to quiet down when it started to pump fuel but while it was trying to prime for the first time it ticked loudly.

CC

[Peter]

My only concern is what it does to the ignition protection requirement for our distributor.

Yes indeed - thank you for mentioning this.

Peter