Little metal beads in oil pan, broken piece in transmission, 1 1/8" nut

[ajgaines]

I was able to pull the engine out in my cat 30 using the boom, places some 2x12's down and have it sitting out where it's now easier to work on. I turned the engine over to access the bolts underneath. Upon doing so I see all these little metal beads that are chipped and broken at the bottom of the oil pan, they look like they are from some bearing. What do they go to? What do you think would have caused whatever they are to break?

I don't know the correct terms here but you can see in the third image that there is a piece of the transmission broken that held some screw that held the thing underneath set in place. I see a screw in one of the other holes holding it in place. Is only 1 required?

Lastly, I am trying to get the 1 1/8" nut that is on the very front of the engine where it connects to the prop shaft. It's impossible. No matter how hard I push on this thing it won't move. I have decent grip on it and I'm worried the whole thing will just shear into a circle, not that I'm really even capable of applying any more torque on it.

[Dave Neptune]

Those are small bearings. Did you have any loud scary noises? They could of been there a long long time too.

The screw holds the adjusting collar for forward and holding the 3 pawls in the detent on the cone. What other screw?

Use a good socket and an impact wrench or a good BOX wrench and lots of leverage.

Dave Neptune

[ajgaines]

This is the screw that holds the adjusting collar I guess. There's only 1 of 3 in there? I've found it impossible so far to get the 1 1/8 nut off the front. I've used a 24" breaker bar with wrench that gives me about 27" with my full bodyweight into it and nothing budges. It must be close to 400 ft lbs that I'm putting into it. The pipe wrench is eating into the coupling bit by bit. I'm at a loss for what to do because it's slowly remolding the metal on the nut

[Al Schober]

Two comments:
First, I'm worried that those beads of metal may be babbit from a bearing. Are they hard (ball bearing) or soft (lead)?
Second, that nut on the prop shaft flange can be a bear! I had one where I gave up and removed it using a drill (into the flat) and a cold chisel. Use a new lock washer when you replace it.

[Tim]

I got the output flange nut off with a socket and 4 ft breaker bar. I recall others mentioning using an impact wrench.

[ajgaines]

You aren't kidding! I've been torching this thing, adding kroil, trying, torching, kroil, repeat, repeat. I'm sure I'm getting about 400 ft lbs on this thing and nothing budges. Using a 12 point socket it's starting to reform itself so I have stopped.

Where do you even find 4 ft breaker bars?? Never knew they were necessary for anything, especially a 1000cc engine.

Al Schober, regarding your method of getting it off, you mean drilling into a flat side of the nut, pounding the nut with a chisel to get it off and somehow not destroy the threads??

[Dave Neptune]

Once you have a hole or two in the nut begin using a chisel to split it. Usually once the nut starts to give it is loose. A thread file will fix any damage but do be careful.

Dave Neptune

[ndutton]

We've been here before. Impact wrench usually spins it off in about 2 seconds.

http://www.moyermarineforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=68494&postcount=9

[ajgaines]

Finally got the nut off! Bought a 6 point socket while allowed me to get just a little more torque. I think the little metal beads came from here? They were nearly all cut perfectly in half

[ndutton]

Beads = ball bearing balls

[ajgaines]

Any idea what would have caused them to shatter?

[ndutton]

Any idea what would have caused them to shatter?

Well, not really but one of my pet peeves is prop shafts being beat into too-tight couplings. It's unfortunately a common practice and exactly the sort of thing that can cause driveline damage. As you disassemble pay close attention to the inner and outer bearing races for damage too.

[edwardc]

Unfortunately, the throw-out bearing is an integral part of of the yoke and is not replacable. These are getting very hard to find. Usually have to find a whole reversing gear assembly!

I had a discussion with Don years ago where he expressed to me that he thought that this part might become the next "limiting" part on our aging A4's. We tossed around the idea of designing a new part with replacable bearings, but it never went further than that.

[ndutton]

Unfortunately, the throw-out bearing is an integral part of of the yoke and is not replaceable. These are getting very hard to find. Usually have to find a whole reversing gear assembly!

I had a discussion with Don years ago where he expressed to me that he thought that this part might become the next "limiting" part on our aging A4's.

All the more reason not to beat a shaft into the coupling.

[ajgaines]

I finally got the nut off the front of the engine, but now trying to remove the coupling behind it. In the manual it says use the bolts that were in there previously and slowly torque them down so it will pull itself off of there. I have tried this and I torqued so hard I thought the whole thing would explode with still nothing budging. I don't really understand whats beneath it, am I even doing it right? I didn't break anything, but I think the threads are a little damaged from trying to torque through it.


Cheers!