Winterizing your Atomic 4

[allengc43]

topping off tank

my boat is winterized and on the hard, however , the local marina closed the pumps before I could top off the tank.
The tank is half full. Probably need about 8-9 gallons. Can I use any other fuel? eg mid grade or premium?

any additives recommended in addition to the star tron enzyme fuel treatment which I added to the tank (1 1/2 oz)

[smosher]

Ideally, non ethanol gas and if Star Tron has worked for you in the past, why change. I'm sure others have their preference.

Fwiw I use StarTron and MMO.

Steve

[Ajax]

Ajax, Good luck with the racing! I love the way the P30 sails, our first boat was a brand new First 29 and yet I swear this new girl is faster on all points except maybe hard on the wind. Let me know how you do.

Off topic: she has a newly installed furler and yet came with a full suite of North hank on headsails (spinnaker, 145, 125 and a light genny that I left on the boat) If you are interested in any (or a spare pole), PM or email me.

Yeah, I'm loving it. Check your PM's.

[Ajax]

The block drain plugs are on the starboard side of the motor. Note that we are talking about 1/8" NPT drain plugs, which are not "freeze plugs". "Freeze plugs" are pressed into the block and only removed during an overhaul. The forward drain plug is behind the starter. It's possible to get to it without removing the starter, but it isn't easy. The aft plug should have a pipe nipple in it that extends out past the accessory drive. Hopefully, it won't break off when you try to remove the end cap. I've worked on two A4s now, one had a brass extension that opened easily, the other had an iron/steel extension that broke off right at the block when I tried to open it.

Access to the starboard side of the A4 is really poor in a P30, so I'd probably leave the plugs in and just run more antifreeze through it.

I'm going to have a look anyway, but if you're right about the poor access, I hope you're right that not removing them won't cause the block to explode this winter.

[positron]

topping off tank

If your tank is half full, it might be better to drain it over the winter. I use a squeeze bulb for an outboard motor, and enough tubing to thread the outlet hose through the cockpit drain to a can on the ground. Once I get it going it doesn't need much help from me. Come spring I dump a couple of gallons of gas in the tank and siphon that out too.

[sastanley]

I'm going to have a look anyway, but if you're right about the poor access, I hope you're right that not removing them won't cause the block to explode this winter.

Bah! Ajax, you have plenty of access. - you just need to become wise in the ways of the contortionist. - The aft drain is between the distributor and the alternator belt. If as original, I think most were were galvanized , 1/8" x 6" pipe nipples. Mine broke off long ago..some just put a plug back in, or I had to enlarge mine to 1/4" NPT since there was so much corrosion. I have good enough access I could probably skip the nipple and just have a plug in there since the 1/4" nipple is uncomfortably close to the alternator belt.

BTW - The Moyer panoramic motor on the home page is a great way to scan the motor up close from the comfort of your PC to figure out where things are.

[ndutton]

The whole nine yards

I'm not a winterizer but if it hasn't been done in a while what a great time to remove the sideplate altogether. By next spring the waterjacket would be thoroughly cleaned, the starter, alternator and associated brackets cleaned up, fresh fasteners and gasket and the block drains cleaned up and functional for the next time.

[Kuzka]

My Ericson 29 is moored in Victoria BC Canada - the temperature at ocean level seldom reaches 32 degrees F - I have a dehumidifier that keeps the humidity on board at 35 to 40% and approximately 1 to 2 degrees above the ambient temp. If it gets colder I can activate an 110V heater that keeps the hull at 34 degrees or warmer. What would you recommend regarding winterizing the engine and cooling system. I also take the boat out for a half hour motor once per month. There is also a problem in Canada finding Marvel Miracle Oil. I have spoken with my auto mechanic and he identified challenges using an unleaded fuel that the engine was probably originally designed for so the MMO sounds like the perfect solution??

[joe_db]

32 won't freeze salt water, so if you're SURE it never gets colder than that, you might not need to do anything.

[Laker]

Why is it that you cannot buy Marvel Mystery Oil in Canada?

[old-sailer]

Winter shutdown of Atomic 4

I purchased a C&C with the A4 in it and the previous owner showed me some things which horrified me, so I need opinions here before proceeding.

1) He is using Valvoline 10W30 car oil in the engine. My understanding is the A4 uses a wet clutch. So my thinking is it should have motorcycle oil in it designed for wet clutch systems. I'm thinking 10W40 Mobil 1 motorcycle oil. He had to hold the gearshift level down in reverse or it would pop out.

2) When he shuts down the engine for the last time in the fall he pours oil in the spark arrestor until the engine stalls. This fills the cylinders with oil for the winter he tells me. I assume it also fouls the plugs. I prefer to squirt a bit in the cylinders after removing the plugs. My Marine Surveyor mentioned the spark arrestor is covered in oil and should be cleaned.

3) Plug spark plug wires are taped together in a clump. Why I don't know. I have purchased new wires and plugs anyway.

Thoughts please...

[Marian Claire]

This may help with question one. http://www.moyermarine.com/faq/3.6.html Dan S/V Marian Claire

[old-sailer]

This may help with question one. http://www.moyermarine.com/faq/3.6.html Dan S/V Marian Claire

I was more concerned with item (2). Pouring oil in the spark arrester. I intend to use the motorcycle multigrade oil because of the wet clutch.

[ndutton]

From what I've read around here (I don't winterize and my heart goes out to those that need to) the spark plugs are trashed in the Spring after start-up regardless of what type of oil you're putting in the cylinders. Also, I think tossing motor oil in the intake is a good way to clog up the very small passages in the carburetor. The textbook method is squirting a shot or two of Marvel Mystery Oil into the spark plug holes.

As for the preferred oil in consideration of the wet "clutch" (to apply a motorcycle analogy), straight 30 weight detergent motor oil is recommended by our host and Rotella seems to be popular with many knowledgeable members.

[Laker]

The A4 tranny has a strong detent for forward ; no detent in reverse. Holding reverse is normal. A thread on oils for the A4 on this forum a while back made me a Rotella convert. I have stopped wondering about other oils because my engine is happy.

Fogging the A4 by feeding MMO thru the carb is a long established part of winterization , or pickeling. This applies to winter prep in cold climates (like 43 dg. north) , or warm climates in the case of prolonged inactivity. Yes , the plugs become a mess , but that is why God made spark plug cleaners. I use the gummy plugs for spring start-up , then , once the engine is recommissioned I swap out for new plugs , clean the dirty ones and keep them as spares. (Actually , after the gummy plugs are run through a cleaner they are perfectly good to go.)

I cannot guess why the PO bound the plug wires together. You are correct in flagging that.

All in all , your problems are minor and you should have a happy engine soon. Enjoy your Atomic Four!