Bowen Island Paint Job

[lat 64]

Not to forget that it should be sealed against any sparking gas fumes. Is it designed for marine use?

[Marty Levenson]

marine environment starter

Thanks for that Lat64,
....wasn't thinking about that aspect. I may need the Delco rubber solenoid gasket that MM sells. I'll disassemble new starter and compare to the one that came with the engine.
I have no reason to believe that the included starter is faulty (was told it was rebuilt in 2009), but couldn't pass up starting off with a fresh one....keep the old one for a spare....but too heavy to keep on the boat (even for me - I'm a maniac about spares: cruise with spare carb, coil, distributor guts, thermostat, fuel pump, Raycor filter...even my old 2 blade prop! That list doesn't include the normal tune-up stuff).

-Marty

[Marty Levenson]

tool for rust removal

Hey All - and happy Thanksgiving to any Canadians tuning in,

Wondering what is the best power tool for the major paint & rust removal. I have a 4.5" angle grinder, and wondering what style wire brush or whatever others have found best. Maybe a rougher and a courser? Drill attachments? I have a dremel tool for the less accessible areas, and wondering what the best attachments are for that, too. Lastly (for now!) solvents, rust removers?

Thanks in advance,
Marty

[jpian0923]

I use acetone then a bench mounted wire wheel/buffer. Get something that is durable. I mean, something that doesn't shed it's bristles into your face. I tried a wire wheel on my dremel and I got pummeled with wire.

[Loki9]

I used a wire wheel in a hand drill with good results.

[Marty Levenson]

oil pan

Just about to remove the oil pan. Flywheel housing, exhaust manifold are removed. Aft housing is still in place.

Part 1 is drop the pan with the engine upright (on an engine stand) to contain whatever is in there (oil is drained but I'm sure there's a bit more). Can anyone give me an idea how heavy that will be? Anything special I need to know?

Part 2 is clean up the pan, repaint.

Part 3 is turn the engine upside down to inspect and install a new gasket and old pan with new screws.

Any advice about the above and what to look for gratefully received!

Thanks,
Marty

[Marian Claire]

I am guessing based on hauling my oil pan around during rebuild. Say 25#s Dan S/V Marian Claire
You could call Ken at the parts # at Moyer and he should have a shipping weight.

[jpian0923]

Weight is 37lbs.

I removed mine when it was upside down. It's pinned in a couple of places. Might be easier upside down so you don't drop it when it finally brakes free.

[Marty Levenson]

which way up?

Thanks to both for the advice: I didn't know it was pinned! I do like the idea of keeping the pan upright so any old glop or metal bits don't drip back into the engine. I have no idea what's in there.

I think we'll put some safety straps around the pan and block in case it slips.

Pictures to follow...

[jpian0923]

You do make a good point about metal bits falling into engine if it is upside down. But, while she is open you'll probably clean up whatever you can reach though. Straps are a good idea. Also, make sure you pull it straight off to avoid ruining the oil pump screen.

[Marty Levenson]

Pan off + photos + more questions

Pan is off without incident...thanks for the help guys. Photos tell the story. Glad we had the straps as its pretty hard to keep tapping around and being ready to support the pan when she lets go...even with help.

Mildly concerned about what's inside. Bear in mind she ran for four hours after rebuild in 2009 (supposedly without a problem) and then sat full of salt water til now. The oil I drained last week looked almost new. A bit of surface rust here and there as you'll see in pics. A tiny bit of goo at the deepest end of the pan (trying to show its viscosity on my finger: photo. Thicker than it looks in the picture). Can that indicate a problem of water getting in the oil, or just par for the course sitting almost three years? Condensation mixing with the oil?

More questions to come....

Thanks!

[Marty Levenson]

assessing the guts

A few photos to show the condition of the bottom end. Wondering if I should be torquing, cleaning or checking anything while I have the chance.

Are the cotter pins in the transmission correct? (once had the king pin on the starter bendix let go as the cotter pan was too small and allowed play that ate way at it...had to dig bits out of the starter while under way in a rough situation. Turned out okay though as my wife learned to sail solo that day and I learned how to take apart the starter while seasick).

Thanks!

[jpian0923]

Cotter pin looks original. That's what mine looked like.

You might wiggle the rod ends a bit but other than that I'd say just clean up the rust.

Others might offer more.

Oil screen looks nothing like mine. I have the one Moyer offers in the catalog. If it works, keep as is.

Oil looks good.

Engine looks good.

[67c&ccorv]

The rust and pitting on those cam lobes will destroy the profile in short order - if it has not done so already.



I'd be looking at the rust on those crank end caps really carefully as well.

It's nearly torn done now...might as well go the rest of the way.

My 0.02$ worth.

[Marty Levenson]

assessing the rust

Hey Guys,

Thanks for looking at the photos. The rust looks worse in the photos than in reality, but I don't want to minimize any problems. I'll see how well I can clean it up tomorrow and see what comes off. I'll post photos: appreciate any feedback or suggestions about what to look for or how to proceed....and how to clean it. Steel wool okay? Hand (not drill) wire brush? Brass wire brush? Green scotch pad?

"I'd be looking at the rust on those crank end caps really carefully as well." Can you say more about what to look for? Appreciate your .02 worth.

Any other opinions?

Thanks,
Marty