Checking drive train after stuck prop fouled on rope

[ArtJ]

I accidentally ran over a mooring pendant last week
I tried to free myself by using reverse, then fwd. Unfortunately, it did not free
up and I heard a loud thump. Thereafter, the engine could not turn the prop.
I briefly looked at the shaft and it did not appear to be rotating in fwd or reverse _ in the panic of the moment . After diver removed the rope I
arranged for a tow to be hauled out. During the tow by a small 25hp boat,
I found that I could get some motion from the prop in fwd and reverse.
There was 20 knts plus of wind I did not push the engine for more than a couple knots of speed to assist in moving. I am not sure if any permanent damage was done. I looked at the Indigo prop and it appeared not to have broken sheer pins as it was tight on the shaft I saw some calcifcation between
prop and shaft whic was not broken So I think prop is still on tight and properly.

The prop is a Indigo ss version and the 1 inch shaft is bronze

I wiggled the shaft in the cutlass and noticed 1/8 inch up/down sideways
play. The cutlass has been approaching replacement time for a few years
so now is the time.

My main concern is how to check if transmission
has any issues in fwd or reverse?

On the hard with the shift lever put in fwd I hand rotated it freely for
180 degrees, then the fwd engaged and it was now turning the
crank in either direction when hand rotating the shaft. Is it normal for the
tranny to take part of a rotation in fwd to engage?
More importantly, How can I cjheck for damage to gears or disks iin
fwd and reverse?

Comments Appreciated

Best Art

[Dave Neptune]

Art, I doubt stopping the engine with a piece of rope would hurt anything. The thump may of been forward disengaging or the rope slapping the hull the "last time".
I am assuming you have a direct drive so just engage forward and see if the trans and engine are "locked" together and the same in reverse. Remember in reverse you must hold pressure on the shifter.
If things worked as you were assisting power for the tow I doubt there is any real damage from the incident.

Do check for a bent shaft and as far as the wear and tear on the bearings it's your call as to fixing. I would if you really have a full 1/8 of an inch of slop.

I have seen many wraps on these and others with no damage and yes they all stalled the engines.

Dave Neptune

[ArtJ]

Thanks Dave

I was concerned because the shaft appeared not to be rotating yet the gear was in fwd, but again this was done in panic mode. The cutlass hasn,t been done in 20 years. I am thinking of cutting the shaft to easily remove it
in 2 pieces. I have enough space before hitting the rudder.

Then using a sawzall again carefully cut cutlass in 3 pieces to remove it.

The shaft log must be removed as well I assume. I have never done this It looks like
it fits over the od of the shaft tube and is only clamped on? should the log be replaced as well?

Thanks again Art

[Dave Neptune]

The "log" should be fine if it wasn't leaking. It may be easier to drop the rudder and just pull the shaft instead of cutting and replacing.
Yes the log just clamps on.
I have even done shaft and log replacements sitting in the water. A bit of water does get in but if your prepared it's less that a couple of gallons. Just need 2 short shafts the same size to plug the log's. Then get the installed one loose. Once loose just slide it off and the new one on. The water encroachment can be managed with a towel or a bit of quickness, but be prepared ahead of time.

Have you tried testing by running in forward or reverse to check for noises?

If you are replacing the cutlass bearing you will need to be out of the water.

Dave Neptune

[ArtJ]

Hi Dave
Heard no noises in fwd or reverse after rope removed.

Boat is out of water now

I have enough space for the whole shaft to clear the rudder I believe
the reason for cutting would be due to the potential difficulty and damage
done to shaft couplings.

I assume the shaft log is a stuffing box with a piece of hose clamped onto it? Assuming rubber hose in good condition no need to replace it? Is taht sold separately? The shaft is 1 iinch bronze and may be 50 yo . I had cutlass replaced 20 yrs ago. a new coupler was installed then
should i try to pull it off with bolts and socket as spacer?

Thanks Dave
Art

[Dave Neptune]

Art, the hose is available. Often instead of replacing the shaft due to wear at the shaft seal it is easier to shorten or lengthen the hose to place the seal on a part of the shaft that is not worn.
Once the trans coupling is loose the shaft should slide out with a bit of coaxing and/or gentle tapping on the prop hub with a piece of wood and a hammer to get it loose.
The strut bearing can be pressed out with a piece of threaded rod and some ingenuity. There are a few links on this site that showed the process very well.
Be sure to back off the packing gland so the shaft is not being held by the groove the seal has created with wear.

Dave Neptune

[ArtJ]

Hi Dave
I don't have a strut bearing the cutlass is embedded directly into the hull.

The 2 couplers I am referring to are the shaft couplers near the engine rear but NOT the

coupling that is directly at the transmission output.

The one connected to the prop shaft must be removed or cut off to get the shaft out Which is best to do ?

Thanks

[ArtJ]

https://sailboatdata.com/storage/images/sailboat/drawing/tartan_34_drawing.jpg

Please see above link FYI as reference
Drawing showing Tartan 34c engine and couplings position

Art

[romantic comedy]

The cutless bearing is easy to get out on the T34. On mine there are 2 set screws holding it in. I use a threaded rod and an approximately 1 1/8 socket to pull the cutless.

I often pull the shaft so my coupling comes right off. But with all the room we have, it should be easy to get a puller in there if needed. If you will definitely replace the shaft then you can cut it, but why.

BTW my cutless bearing is a bonito model.

The packing hose that connects to the stuffing box can be obtained from Buck Algonquin. You can cut it to any length. As posted above the length can be changed to move the stuffing rubbing spot on the shaft. Make sure to get new clamps. I dont know what they are called, but get the best ones available.

To unbolt the coupling from the engine I use two combination wrenches. Just use one to hold the coupling from turning by putting it on a bolt and letting it hit the hull. Use the other wrench to turn another bolt. A straight bar can be used also.

You can take the stuffing box apart and get it working and greased up.

Funny I installed an Indigo prop in 2000 and have not removed it yet. I always just take out the shaft. I hire a diver to do the bottom and pull the shaft. I work on the prop while he does the bottom.

[ArtJ]

Thanks for the posts
Dave Neptune Romantic Comedy, Al