[tac]

You can check the switch at least two ways:

1. If you have a voltmeter or multimeter (VOM scale set to DC voltage), connect it across the switch. That is, put the red (+) test lead on the switch terminal screw from the coil, the black lead (-) on the other screw to the fuel pump. With the ignition ON and no oil pressure (engine not running), the switch contacts should be open and you should see 12 volts (nominal) on the meter. With oil pressure up (engine running) the switch should be closed and the meter will read near zero. If it reads other than a few tenths of a volt, the switch contacts are damaged - get a new switch. If you see the meter reading bounce around as time passes with the engine running, the switch is bad - get a new one.

2. If you have no meter, or are hesitant to use one, here are two ways to jump, or short across, the switch:

a) If you have a short wire with alligator clips on both ends, connect one end to one of the switch’s terminals, and the other end to the other terminal. This “jumps” across the switch contacts, bypassing them. Oddly enough, this temporary wire is called a “jumper”. This method is temporary.

b) If you have no alligator clips, then just connect both of the existing wires going to the switch together. You can do that by putting both wires together under either one of the switch terminals. Or, you can disconnect both wires from the switch, connect the ring terminals on their ends together with a short #8 (or so) machine screw, washer, and nut. Wrap in electrical tape. This method, while still temporary, is preferable if you’ll be waiting for a new pressure switch.