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Old 11-24-2019, 08:19 PM
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ndutton ndutton is offline
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Here is the owner's version

. . . in reply to a guy having Yanmar 1GM fuel problems on SBO:

I just completely redid the fuel system on my 1GM and will be putting together a blog post (with pictures) on the Ericson (EYO) site once I get a chance. Following the design of my friend Neil Dutton and based on some suggestions from Guy Stevens (on the EYO list) this is what I did:

I disconnected the on-engine mechanical lift pump and removed the small on-engine fuel filter altogether, including the metal lines that ran to the lift pump and to the injection pump. The lift pump is still attached to the engine but both lines are unhooked so the pump does nothing. (No need to cap off the in/out ports of the lift pump; just disconnect both lines.) The function of the mechanical lift pump is now handled by a Facet electric pump. I put a banjo barb fitting on the injection pump so that I could plumb directly to it from my large Racor 500 filter. I also installed a diverter valve so that I send the fuel either to the injection pump or into the fuel return line for priming the large Racor and/or polishing the fuel in the tank if I wanted to. I also have a SPDT switch that allows me to energize the pump from inside the engine compartment without the ignition switch on. I used new 1/4" ID fuel hose and hose clamps throughout.

So here is the direction of the flow, starting at the tank:
(1) Tank
(2) Input side of the Racor 500
(3) Output of Racor 500 to input of the Facet electric pump
(4) Output of the Facet electric pump to the center input of the diverter valve.
(5) One side of the diverter valve output goes directly to the injection pump
(6) Other side of the diverter valve output is teed into the fuel return line.

This works fabulously.

To prime the empty Racor, I set the diverter valve to output fuel into the fuel return line. I throw the switch and listen to the sound of the pump, which changes noticeably when the Racor fills with fuel. Run for a short time beyond that (just for good measure) and the filter is primed. Then, I switch the diverter valve to send the fuel to the injection pump. With it under pressure from the pump, I crack the bleed screw at the injection pump until solid fuel comes out. Then I tighten the bleed screw (while still under pressure) and then put the switch in the position for normal operation, i.e., to get its power from engine panel.

As for the on-engine lift pump, you do not need to remove it; simply disconnect it. Or, if for some reason it bothers you having it on there, you could remove it and fashion a plate to cover it. Those pumps are bad news because if/when the diaphram fails it dumps diesel into your crankcase. Also, the priming lever on it is a complete joke.

Definitely lose the primer bulb, no matter what else you do.

Here is the barb you need for the injection pump: Fitting Adapter 1/4" Hose ID Barb x 12mm or 7/16" Banjo Steel Zinc plated #DG | eBay

And this is the electric pump I used: Amazon.com: Facet-Purolator Fep60sv GOLD-FLO Fuel Pump: Automotive

And the diverter valve: FUEL VALVE SHUT OFF FUEL TANK 1/4" THREAD 18-1655 3 WAY VALVE WITH DETENT BRASS | eBay

Hope this helps.
__________________
Neil
1977 Catalina 30
San Pedro, California
prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others
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