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sdemore 10-28-2018 06:25 AM

Choke Cable
 
On the carburetor end of my choke cable, the little metal ferrule is missing. When I tighten the the hold down clamp enough to hold it, it pinches the sheath against the cable and keeps it from sliding properly. Is it possible to replace that metal end, or am I stuck replacing the whole cable?

tac 10-28-2018 08:43 AM

Results of search for control cable. Your fitting should be somewhere in here. They’re commonly available, if you don’t have something special.

https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/depa...rojumptopage=1

Marian Claire 10-28-2018 09:55 AM

A picture of what you have might help. My set up looks like the 360 A-4 and the pics in the online catalog. Two different attachment points, a fixed point for the choke cable bracket that holds the outer cable cover and the adjustable choke lever for the inner wire.
I recently had to replace my cable. During the time it was not operable I used a boat card to block the air intake to start the cold A-4.

Dan S/V Marian Claire

ndutton 10-28-2018 10:45 AM

Is the choke stiff, hard to pull? Maybe all it needs is lubrication, then you won't need to clamp the outer sheath so hard it's crushed. Squirting something on the ends won't do, you'll have to remove the solid inner core, clean it up, apply grease (winch grease works pretty well and is suitable for the environment) and reassemble.

In fact, it sounds like a good project for me today.

Al Schober 10-28-2018 03:15 PM

The choke cable does not have anything special on the engine end. Just the cut-off sleeve and the cut-off wire. Hardware to hold both is part of the carb.
Agree with Neil. You may be able to pull the wire out of the sleeve and clean it up. But this doesn't clean up the inside of the sleeve.
Why not just replace the cable? They're not expensive - much cheaper than the control cables with the threaded ends.

ndutton 10-28-2018 03:27 PM

I serviced mine this morning (removed and greased the core wire). Took me 20 minutes start to finish. I do it at least annually which keeps the cable and sheath in good condition inside and out. The engine end cable clamp and core dimple screws got a shot of WD-40 too.

sdemore 10-28-2018 03:47 PM

Choke isn't hard to pull when the clamp is loose, but the clamp doesn't hold it unless it is fairly tight. Maybe the assembly is wrong. I would have expected it to be like most other sheathed cables, with a metal fitting on the end of the sheath for the clamp to bite on, without collapsing the sheath.

http://www.demore.com/Gallery/var/al...MG_1707_tn.jpg

ndutton 10-28-2018 04:16 PM

Have you tried removing the return spring?

Marian Claire 10-28-2018 06:14 PM

Thanks for the pic. That explains a lot. Choke cables that I am familiar with have a "spiral" outer layer creating a tube. The one you have seems to have all the wires in line. No wonder it hangs up. Has this cable been modified?
Dan S/V Marian Claire

JOHN COOKSON 10-29-2018 01:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marian Claire (Post 114852)
Thanks for the pic. That explains a lot. Choke cables that I am familiar with have a "spiral" outer layer creating a tube. The one you have seems to have all the wires in line. No wonder it hangs up. Has this cable been modified?
Dan S/V Marian Claire

It is just plain he wrong cable. No wonder it doesn't fit in the hold down clamp.
I would order a new choke cable from MMI that will fit in the hold down clamp correctly.

TRUE GRIT

sdemore 10-29-2018 06:44 AM

Thanks guys! That was the reason for the question. This is the cable that was in the boat (for a long time, from the looks of it), but something doesn't seem kosher. It slides easily on its own, the choke operates freely, but when the clamp is tightened, it binds. It is also a pain to get clamped in. I'm used to working with motorcycle cables that have a metal support on the end, so thought this one was just missing. I did look at the new ones in the catalog, but they don't show that end. I'll pick up a new one and add it to the winter project list.

ndutton 10-29-2018 06:47 AM

I have the exact same cable, no issues.

capnward 10-29-2018 12:59 PM

I see from the excellent photo that the cable is being pinched because the clamp is holding it at an angle, instead of on the perpendicular. If you rotated the bracket that connects with two screws to the carburetor, counterclockwise one notch to the next hole, you might find the clamp holds the cable properly. Also, the part of the clamp touching the head of the bolt can be bent, using pliers and a vise, to clamp the cable tighter. I have a cable without a plastic covering, so oil applied to the outside works its way to the inside. The sheath is spiral wires. It may be that the wires of your sheath were originally spiral, but became distorted, so that the clamp squeezes the cable inside that is supposed to move. If you cut back the part of the sheath that is distorted, to where it is spiral, the clamp may hold the sheath and not the internal cable. Or you may be able to just move the clamp back further on the sheath, away from the distorted part.

Dave Neptune 10-29-2018 05:25 PM

You have an OB shifter/throttle after market cable. And it is not even set in a way as to work. It should have a "solid end" that the cable passes through and is clampable!!! Your's is just cut off and clamped hopefully:(.

Get an actual marine grade choke cable. It is spiral wound and can be cut to length for optimum performance and ease of operation:rolleyes:.

Dave Neptune :cool:


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