Cylinder Re-Sleeving
 

How is this done on an A4? I've watched several YouTube videos on removal and replacement for other engines and all of them are done through the top of the block. I don't see how this can be done on an A4. Anybody?

Cylinders 3 and 4 have damaged bores.

Can’t be done in situ. You’d have to remove the head and take the block to a sleeve company to get it done...at least as far as my knowledge goes and I’m still learning

Doesn't re-sleeving imply there were sleeves in the first place?

The existing sleeve or "cylinder bore" of the block is "bored out" and the sleeve is pressed into place. Then the sleeve becomes the new cylinder bore. If it is a sleeved block (rare) the sleeve is bored out and another pressed in place.

Be sure the rest of the blocks integrity is good enough to last as long as the new sleeves, a judgement call.

Why do you think the A-4 can't be done from the top?

Dave Neptune :cool:

Wouldn't you need a lot of space to bore out an A4 in place? Many of them are pretty close fits.

If you had the room above the engine it could be done in place. If "sleeving" is in order removing a small engine like the A-4 would be worth while. Having the sleeving done in a shop will yield a better job than on site as locating the true centerline would be much easier to set up properly. Sleeving on site is usually done on larger engines where removing would be a bigger job than setting up on site.
Most A4's can be stripped down in the boat and then be removed as a much lighter engine. Trying to get set up on a small boat could be more work that the R&R itself. Again a financial judgement decision.

Dave Neptune :cool:

I have the engine out. The cylinder is a different color than the block surface and the color change is about 1/16'' below the surface.

Jim, if the block has been sleeved you should be able to see the sleeve. The sleeve will be about 1/4~3/8 larger diameter than the cylinder bore. The discolor of the sleeve should be visible within the block surface. The surface of the sleeve and block should be the same for the head-gasket to seal properly.

The 1/16 you see may just be the chamfer at the top of the bore to eliminate "hot spots".

Dave Neptune :cool:

Ok. I have a little damage about 3.5” deep inside the cylinder. Will that effect the rings?

What sort of damage do you see? A pic may help.

If the damage is below the rings at the bottom of the stroke maybe, maybe not. If the damage is open to the cooling around the cylinder then definitely!

Dave Neptune :cool:

Rust and piting. I hadn’t thought of the cooling system. I’m guessing I’ll have to fill the water jacket and see if any water leaks into the bore. Good catch Dave!

Need a block
 

Anybody have a block for sale? Machinist says there isn’t enough block material to bore and sleeve.

Moyer does :cool:
Also this guy's uncle has one:
https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/...181837322.html

I looked on Moyer. Didn’t see one. I’ll check the guys uncle.

The only place I could find it is under the short-block rebuild menu:

https://moyermarine.com/shortblockcalc/

Sleeve OD
 

Does anybody know the OD, for a standard piston size, sleeve sold here on Moyer?