Gushing water near grease cup
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Here we go again. I'm very new to this engine and engines in general, but I'm trying to learn. So far everyone here has been so helpful. Thank you!
I went out yesterday and after reinstalling the thermostat, replacing the spark plugs, etc, the engine started right up. After checking for leaks, I found this :eek: There is a steady stream of water coming from just forward of the grease cup. I've attached a picture from the video I took. You might be able to view the video here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1f6M...ew?usp=sharing Any insights and help would be very appreciated! Thanks! Matt 1975 Sabre 28 |
The only source of water in that area is from the pump body itself and is making its way out via either a damaged shaft seal or a freeze crack. If the budget allows this would be a great time to consider a new MMI 502 flange pump.
https://moyermarine.com/product/mmi-...p-csob_00_365/ You'd better check you oil for water contamination too. |
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When I feel back there, it feels like there's an opening where the water comes out that is an actual opening and not a crack. Does that make any sense? Is there an opening right there? |
Yes, the Oberdorfer 202M, the pump you have, has an opening in the casting on the bottom for the specific purpose of letting errant water out. There shouldn't be any water in that area to begin with.
If the pump housing is not cracked, the 202M can be rebuilt up to a point. The time will come that the impeller cavity is so worn that pump performance will fall off at which point you'll be buying a replacement anyway. Like I said, you can get out ahead of future repairs by replacing now. |
I'll try to take out the old one and buy the new one. I'm sure there's a thread around here somewhere about this, but can you tell me, is it just those two bolts to remove it, along with what looks like two connections to the water?
Those bolts seem like they might be difficult to get to. it was hard enough just getting the camera back there. But I also see on my video that there's some kind of create-a-gasket residue on it, so it has been done before. If there's a trick to it besides a wrench, some PB Blaster, and brute strength, I'm interested to know! Thanks so much for your help! |
Two bolts and two hoses, that's it. While your credit card is handy, consider MMI's extendo-bolt that was specifically designed to remedy the poor access of the bottom bolt.
https://moyermarine.com/product/lowe...lt-csob_10_89/ We have a saying around here, do it right and cry once. The money you spend now will pay dividends in the future. |
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The lower one is notorious for being hard to get at. Because of that, many of us have the Lower Extended Bolt sold here by our host. EDIT: Neil was faster on the draw... |
EDIT: Neil was faster on the draw...[/QUOTE]
You had pics! You guys were both so helpful! This is the best community. I'm lucky to be a part of it. Cheers fellas |
Last question
I ordered the new one and the long bolt. Does anyone know the size of the bolts to attach it? I'm going to order a socket extender to get at the lower bolt.
Thanks again for all the help! |
Remove the upper bolt first. If the lower bolt is not to tight you will be able to swing the pump outward, away from the engine, and have more access\ visibility to the lower bolt.
For the install I cut the head off a 3" bolt, hand tightened the resulting stud into the lower hole, slid the pump and gasket on it, then installed the upper bold and tightened it down tight enough so the pump would stay put, then removed the stud and start the lower bolt, then loosen both bolts and torque down evenly. Happy wrenching. TRUE GRIT |
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water pump replacement
Santa brought me the new MM flange pump for Christmas , waiting for Spring to get to CT , so I can do the install .
I spayed PB blaster on the lower and upper bolts and both water hoses last week . I had an idea to run engine to to temp prior to heat every thing up prior to removal ? Good idea or bad ? John +1 on the 3 inch bolt .. Good install tip . |
Heating up the engine probably isn't necessary; those bolts aren't typically frozen in place the way exhaust fasteners can be. They yield to reasonable force once you get a grip on them - it's just that getting the grip on the lower one is the hard part.
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water pump install
I Dont rember seeing that , will recheck the box , thanks for the tip ..
I am not sure of the Bolt size .. but I am hoping the socket extender will do the trick . |
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Hint: Put the socket on the extension and go by feel until the socket is on the bolt then click the racket into the extension and twist. Works for the install also. TRUE GRIT |
gasket
I was just thinking about the remaining gasket material that may or not be adhered to the engine block ...
what is the best way to remove the remaining material , I am thinking that this Pump is on the engine since 1977 .. |
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I don't think you will have a problem. If you do have to scrape first try something softer than brass to scrape with; maybe a plastic or wood wedge. If there is any thin film left acetone on a green 3M pad might work. TRUE GRIT Edit: The engine is steel so you can be a bit rougher with it if any gasket is stuck to it. |
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water pump install
Both upper and lower pump bolts are frozen really well , I sprayed with PB
Blaster and will let them sit for 48 hours . I will go down and try again on Wednesday and bring a a torch if i need it . I think that lower unit extension bolt is in my future MMI order . |
Tap on the bolts after you spray them with PB Blaster.
TRUE GRIT |
water pump replacement
Good Tip thanks ... i will let you know ...
I think the pump has been leaking slowly for a while .. the lower bolt is pretty corroded .. Not enough that any water accumulated , but enough to form rust . |
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