New mechanical fuel pump does not pump fuel
 

I worked hard to install a rebuilt mechanical fuel pump from Moyer to replace the electrical fuel pump. I replaced it because the electrical fuel pump seemed to be overpowering the float needle valve to squirt fuel out of the the carb below the flame arrester.

When I connected the fuel line (which is dripping fuel) to the new mechanical pump and turn the engine over no fuel comes out of the mechanical fuel pump. I hear people talking about a "bale". What is that and how does it relate to the flow of fuel please? Just got this pump and I can't wait until Monday to call Ken.

Please help

Al

Only relating what I read on this board. The bale is a manual fuel priming lever attached to the fuel pump. You work it by hand(up and down?) to get the air out of the pump and fuel into it.

I have a 3-5 psi electric fuel pump. Haven't had any issues with it yet.

More info here.

http://www.moyermarineforum.com/foru...hp/t-6769.html

Al, I don't have good pictures handy, but the bale is a u-shaped wire "bale" that should be hanging near the cup shaped bowl on the mech fuel pump. Its job is to move the rubber diaphragm back and forth (that if I understand correctly, you just rebuilt) against the springs and pull fuel from the tank to feed the carb.

Please see attached of an old pic that shows the bale on my boat..i hope this helps...if it does not, please keep feeding us info so we can continue to assist. (not everyone's boat is laid out exactly the same.)
I hope you can get the mech pump sorted out. I personally prefer it to the electric...one less circuit to manage on the boat...

If there something was wrong with the needle valve in the carb with the electrical pump installed, it isn't clear how the mechanical pump is going to fix it. My guess is there's a speck of dirt preventing the needle valve from seating properly, or a degraded rubber tip on the needle valve, or the valve is somehow mis-seated.

. . . . . or a leaky float with gasoline inside.

bale away!
 

As Ken will probably tell you, just prime the fuel line up to the float valve using the bale. The bale will go loose at that point because the line is pressurized. A fuel pressure gauge is helpful here. If the line does not stay pressurized, and gas gets into the flame arrester, the problem is likely dirt in the float valve. Neither kind of pump can overpower a properly working float valve. But I think you will like the mechanical pump. It has better suction, and does not require electricity and an oil pressure safety switch that needs to be bypassed to prime the fuel line. My mechanical pump has worked fine for over 2500 hours. Use MMO in the fuel to keep the rubber parts lubricated. I believe ethanol can degrade the rubber, in the pump and at the float valve tip.

Al-
The good news is that now you have an alternative (BU?) pump.

The bad news, as others pointed out, is you haven't fixed the issue. :cool:

A carb rebuild seems to be in your immediate future.
If you can handle the DIY task of swapping out a fuel pump, then a rebuild is certainly within your reach. ;)

Al, did you make sure the "fuel pump push rod" was in place to actuate the pump?

Dave Neptune :cool:

One more thing. If I remember (it has been a few years) the springs need to be installed a certain way..the wrong way and stuff doesn't pump right.I seem to recall I did this, and had to take the fuel pump apart again. :o