Video of Moyer rebuild Process
 

Would like to see a Video (utube?) of a typical engine going through
the Moyer rebuild process. Could be a series of pictures, but video
would be better

rebuild process
 

I would like a video of the rebuild process.

I would like to see how you guys make those short blocks on the Online Catalogue look soo beautiful!

:)

67, without actually knowing how they do it, I bet there is a lot of tedious work involved. I had a mech. fuel pump in a 1 gallon paint can of that carb cleaner stuff for weeks and I STILL wasn't able to get all the paint off.

Meticulous
 

MMI does their builds with meticulous attention to detail and spec. Anyone who rebuilds an engine must do the same or it won't last long. Don probably had a couple of aircraft mechanics on the payroll for a while...joking but still LOL...and those guys are meticulous.

I think Don was a pilot....METICULOUS...ever ask a pilot to do something...they put all the ducks in a row then do it. The approach is organized, step by step, based on procedure and training....sort of like medics :) ...and then gut feeling when the plan goes South.

I once rebuilt an engine for my Toyota 4x4 truck "by the book" (manual). Was in PA school and couldn't afford to have it done professionally. Had a wife and baby at home...24 years ago. Went to school until 4pm, dinner, worked on truck engine in hobby shop on base until 10pm, then studied until midnight. Had the engine done and installed 2 days before graduation. Drove 1600 miles back home. "It had to work... it just don't know it yet". I use that saying today, and that's where it came from.

When I sold it about four years later it didn't burn a drop of oil between changes. Not because I am a great mechanic, but because I ensured I followed procedure and spec.

People learn in different ways. Pics and video can provide the needed boost for someone to go ahead and attempt the "insurmountable". It helps with confidence...been there and got through that.

Whatever MMI decides to do is fine with me. I am just happy to have this forum and am learning more and more every day...and certainly enjoying it.

I use an angle grinder with a braided wire wheel and cup, and my cordless drill with other smaller wire wheels and cups and such. For any little corners and nooks and crannies that are too hard to get into with the wire wheel, I use an aerosol spray paint stripper that is extremely aggressive stuff - the paint lifts right off, and I pick and scrape with small screwdrivers and utility knife blades.

Then I scrub with mineral spirits to remove grease and dirt, and then finally several wipe-downs with paint bonding solvent (which is a blend of volatile organic solvents) until the wipes come away mostly clean.

Here's the manifold and head after that treatment:

http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/u...l/SUC53700.jpg

http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/u...l/SUC53597.jpg

That manifold almost looks like it has been subjected to a gunmetal blueing process. Very nice.

That's mostly just the lousy lighting and my cheap digicam... :o

But I do get all the parts very clean before hitting them with primer. I want the paint to stick to the metal, not the dirt, grease, or old paint.

And yes, it is lengthy, tedious work, but I believe it's worth it, for the paint to last longer and provide better protection.

Just an idle thought. While you have it apart, have you pressure tested it?

Which, the manifold? Or the block?

Both. Test the manifold before assembly. Should hold 20 psi. Then test the engine after assembly. Should be no problem what with all the work you are doing. But do it now, go to antifreeze cooling, and never worry about it again.

Alrighty then - I will do so, if you will instruct me as to method. I'll have to plug up all those little holes to get it to hold pressure. What's the preferred method for doing so?

The manifold can be tested by plugging one end of the coolant jacket with a 1/2"NPT plug and then installing a schraeder valve in the other end. Make sure the small 1/8"NPT drain plug is in and pump up to 20 psi. Follow the same procedure with the block once you have the engine assembled, sans water pump. Plug the coolant jacket intake hole and pump up the schraeder valve on the manifold. Should hold 20 psi.

Just browsing through old threads because I'm bored right now, and came across this one. I had completely forgotten about this discussion.

I never did pressure test anything, but a couple weeks ago when I had the engine all ready (so I thought) to run, I first poured water into the manifold until no more would go in - I figured it would be better to start out with as much water as I could get in the block. Then I hooked up a hose to the water pump inlet and stuck the other end in a big plastic tub of water.

When I cranked the engine, the pump sucked in water just fine and discharged it out the other end. I cranked the engine a bunch of times, trying to get that oil pressure up (little did I know there was no way that was going to happen), and I ended up pumping a few gallons of water through the engine.

So I know not only is my pump working, I had no water leaks anywhere in the system. So that was nice.