Help - How do I get the propeller shaft and/or coupler out of the way.
 

Hi all, I just bought a Pearson Triton 1967 with an Atomic 4 engine. I got a good deal because the engine may have a serious problem.

The 4” blower hose got tangled up with the propeller shaft. It was shredded to bits and the spiral wire got tightly wrapped around the Direct Drive Coupling (#12) in the small gap between the the Direct Drive Coupling (#12) and the Rear Oil Seal Retainer (#5).

I put in an inspection hatch in the floor of the cockpit so I can get at it. Then I cut away as much of the wire as possible. I even went at it with a hacksaw. But I worry that approach might damage the Rear Oil Seal (#6).

But there looks like there is still maybe a foot or two of wire still tightly wrapped around the Direct Drive Coupling (#12) inside the gap. I’m concerned that if I just leave the wire in here it will over time damage the Rear Oil Seal (#6).

I’ve think I can remove the Direct Drive Coupling (#12) once I get the propeller shaft and/or it’s flange out of the way. But how do I do that?

Thanks,
Mark

There are 3 bolts holding the coupling to the transmission flange (pc 12). Remove them and you can slide the coupling and shaft aft until the coupling hits the stuffing box. This will give you room to access and remove the nut holding the transmission flange. With the nut removed, you can use the 3 coupling bolts to jack the flange aft enough to get the wire out.

Thanks, but ...
 

Thanks Al, you’re the Man! That was very helpful as I didn't know the prop shaft could move fore and aft in the stuffing box.

But my propeller will only move about +/-1” aft before it hits the rudder. Also my boat is in the water and I’m hoping to not pay for a haul out until next year.

Maybe if I can open up the gap by +/-1” I can get the wire out. Also can I move the flange on the propeller shaft aft as well?

Thanks,
Mark

Turn the rudder hard over to its stop and the shaft should clear.

Getting the coupling loose from the shaft is a bigger issue. The coupling is steel and will corrode internally, making it difficult to remove. There is a technique you can try if you want to go that way.
This involves putting a spacer between the prop shaft and the engine shaft (a suitably sized socket?). You then put 3 long bolts with nuts threaded on all the way through the coupling and into the transmission flange. By holding the bolts from turning and tightening the nuts against the coupling, you pull the coupling forward, leaving the shaft aft. Oh yeah, remove the set screw first.

[YOUTUBE]9fslgwjnuQc[/YOUTUBE]

Take care if using this technique. It can be overdone to the point of destruction.
http://www.moyermarineforum.com/foru...92&postcount=4 (third picture)

Neil, I hope those aren't your photos. The flange comes off a LOT easier if you remove that nut!

Nope, not my photos but rather from a VERY knowledgeable forum brother. The damage to the output flange was the result of trying to press the shaft out of the prop shaft coupling using the socket/spacer technique. The nut holding the output flange was not involved.

Help. Strange existing rear oil seal.
 

Thanks All for your help. You guys rock!

Good news, I got the wire out that was tangled in the gap. But when went to see if there is any damage to the oil seal it looks like the existing oil seal is very different than the one Don Moyer shows in Rear Oil Seal Video.

It looks like it’s OK but I don’t know how it works. I’m guessing the o-ring spring should go on top of the soft rubber oil seal part 2. When I opened it up it was next to it as in the photo.

Do you think I can put the o-ring spring on top of the soft rubber oil seal part 2 and put the whole thing back together.

I would like to put in a new rear oil seal from Moyer in the future, but I’m running out of time to do that now.

Thanks again, you guys are the best!

Yup..that is me. Fortunately, folks like MMI have replacements! Maybe if I had lubricated the shaft and been more patient, it might have come out more easily.

mwh, maybe lay one of those oil absorbing pads underneath that area to see if it leaks any oil from the entanglement.

I would say that what you are looking at is the inner part of the seal torn away from the outer part.

The pitting on your output coupling is also a concern.

I would replace oil seal and either sleeve or replace coupling.

I think you will have significant oil leakage otherwise with all the headaches and possible catastrophic engine failure associated with that.

As Neil would say, do it right once.

Peter