Replace Old-Style Inlet water pipe
 

Recently noticed my old style compression fitting rigid inlet water pipe to the water inlet manifold is loose and leaking at the manifold end. Is there any reason why I shouldn't just replace this tube and threaded fittings with barbed fittings and 1/2 inch hose instead? It looks like it is very tight space behind the distributor to get a wrench to possibly tighten this fitting, so I'm thinking it would be easier to just break off the pipe and remove the remaining fittings with a deep socket and extension. The replacement SS hose clamp may also be easier to tighten and maintain in the future. My only concern is finding proper sized fittings and the possibility that the original fitting may be seized in the manifold and cause damage upon removal. Anyone out there made this similar modification?

Hello cp..welcome :)...pictures are always helpful so we can see what you are dealing with. The distributor and manifold are on opposite sides of the engine, so that is why I am asking for clarification.

Welcome to the forum. Water jacket side plate??? Check out the 360 panoramic view of the A-4 on the home page and peruse the on-line catalog for part names. Lots of good info to be gleaned.
Dan S/V Marian Claire

I think you talking about the short 3/8 in curved copper pipe coming off the water pump to water inlet. My A4 is early model and has two right angle compression fittings just aft of the distributor. Moyer has a simple kit with barb fittings , rubber hose and clamps to replace this little run of copper pipe- about $25 If this is your problem area it is much easier to pull the distributor out to give you wrench clearance. If your careful and don't rotate it you can slip it right back in place afterwards.

inlet water pipe replacement
 

Yes, I'm speaking of the water jacket side and appreciate all the input. Of course I'm trying to avoid disturbing or removing the distributor because it runs so well why mess with success??:rolleyes: However, that may not be possible. If I am able to remove, I think I will add some kind of extension so that the fittings are not buried behind the distributor again. I don't think you should have to remove the distributor every time you want to tighten this fitting or hose.

I would remove the distributor cap, and then tape the rotor/shaft to the distributor housing so you don't have to move anything, and be sure the orientation is noted at removal and replace at the same position.
Another option is to use the roll pin to and a crank to set the motor to TDC before removal..then you can use the well documented procedure here and in the Moyer Manual to reassemble the distributor back to the correct position. Good opportunity to clean up and lube the advance weights too. ;)

Wow, I like the idea of "taping" the rotor to the housing. All these decades I have just been marking the rotor position with a little tape - duh!! I must be loosing it. If I then thought I needed to I would "retime" using the familiar "ndutton" method - rotate till rpm improved then back a" tick".