Contemplations for a shortened season
 

(Thanks Coronavirus):(

So up here in the frozen north, they locked down our marina's in march, so we've only just been allowed back in to see our friendly (moneysinks).

(Okay, there are pictures, but I got her this way and yes its terrifying. I may post them as part of a before/after post later):eek:

Since I'm contemplating taking mechanical cutting devices to the cockpit sole of my 28' Newport C&C in order to provide my A4 with a somewhat dryer environment by rebuilding that surface from the gangway to the transom, I'm also contemplating putting a wee bit of noise dampening under the A4. I see a 'universal engine mount' listed in our forum sponsor's catalogue, and my A4 is mounted directly on fibreglass 'rails' in the engine compartment.

Is there anyone who has had experience with cutting down those solid to the hull 'rails' and replacing them with the motor mounts, and possibly in the exquisitely cramped environments that the Newport hulls left for the A4? I'd seriously appreciate some guidance on the "gotcha's" that are (in my case) exceptionally likely to bite my $%#%. :confused:

(point in fact, one of the elements on the table for the cockpit sole is an engine hatch, still being debated with the boatbuilders around the corner with regard to structural integrity and weight issues)

(I've read, reviewed and debated about 5 cockpit sole replacement articles, discussed with the local boatbuilder and the fibreglass 'guy' to my marina, and the cost/benefit ratio is utterly worth it for this effort, and yes, I am likely to ask another 10,000 questions about it here over the next few weeks).

My experience with the Newport 28 is indirect but it may apply here. Capital Yachts, builders of the Newport product line, used engine stringers that were hollow but heavy fiberglass fabrications integral to the interior liner. This may or may not be true of the N28 but I can guaranty it is for the N30 and most importantly to your application, the N27 from which your boat is a direct descendant.

If I am correct, the first cut you make is a total commitment that will be much more work than you're bargaining for. Perhaps drill a small exploratory hole in the stringer before deciding on a strategy?

I knew there would be a 'gotcha'.:eek:
- Man, thanks - it might explain why the last rebuild was done the way it was.


Oh, .... I think you asked once if I had a hull #. Imprinted, almost dead centre at the bottom of my transom is the string: CPY28201077G. I have *no* idea if that's a hull number or not, but it is the only thing stamped into the transom.

Yep, that is your Hull Identification Number (HIN)
CPY28201077G

As best as I can decipher it (the format changed over the years)
CPY = Capital Yachts, Builder
28 = Model of boat
201 = the 201st hull of the series starting with 001
0 = I have no idea
77 = the year built
G = the month the hull was laid up. In this era of numbering, G = February.

Thanks very much for the breakdown of the HIN ndutton!:D