Distributor Adjusting
 

I have done searches and even tried to find this simple answer in The Manual - what do I loosen to be able to rotate the distributor for timing tuning?? I cannot find this simple answer :confused::rolleyes:

Thanks for your help in even these small questions.

There's a bolt and hold-down clamp at the base of the distributor on the reversing gear side. I believe it's a 9/16". If you pull up the 360 view of the engine on the home page and spin it around to the reversing gear end of the motor, you'll see it at the base of the distributor.

Hope that helps

Isn't the distributor for TIMING tuning and not rpm tuning?

Yes...but I believe the Moyer Manual tells us to adjust timing to achieve best loaded rpm...or something like that.

Yes you are correct - my bad.. edited

hmm.. ok I DID do the right thing.. loosened it enough that I could move the bolt with bare fingers (which I realize is too much), but could not get the dist to budge. Didn't want to try too hard as never done this part before and worried about "doing something" shouldn't.

suggestions?

- once loosened give the clamp a tap with the wrench?
- little MMO to loosen things up?

Using max loaded RPM as a timing indicator requires the advance weights to be in good, free moving and lubricated condition for a proper result.

Is there an aversion to setting timing to the marks with a timing light? That's what I did and my engine runs the best it ever has. If the factory marks are difficult to access or see, create your own (also what I did).

http://www.moyermarineforum.com/foru...d.php?p=108158

"Ditto"
 

I could have just given Neil a "Thumbs up" stamp on his recommendation to read the previous thread about "timing light timing", but the difference in the way an A4 will start and run is such an improvement that I feel it is worth elaborating on. Proper timing and having a good fitting slash tube can eliminate the need for an aftermarket PCV valve.
Tom

Before starting things yesterday I made a mark on the flywheel pin (when #1 at TDC) and at current idle of ~900 rpm the timing light was showing the tick mark to be to the right of the mark on the flywheel cover (sorry no pics). This is when I went to loosen the dist clamp and could not get it to move - so I thought I was doing it wrong and thought best to check here.

Should I be able to take that clamp right off to make sure it isn't rusted/stuck without worrying about the dist moving? Then once know that attach it back on snug but enough so dist can rotate?

How much effort does it take to rotate?

Greg, It is not unusual for the distributor to be a little frozen in place. There is (or should be) a gasket between it and the block that needs to be freed up. I'd spray WD-40 on that area and then try tapping on the base of the dizzy with a drift. Once it is freed up, it will rotate very easily. During the actual timing process "snug" the hold down bolt enough so that you can still rotate it but don't have it loose enough the engine will rotate it. If you are using a timing light, it is important that the advance weights are fully retarded. Reducing the idle as much as possible should insure this. If your carb is clean and you do not have a PCV valve, an idle of about 700 rpm is normally attainable. I have found that I can adjust any of my carb's idle mixture screws to about 1-3/8 turns out and have a good "out of the box" idle. Hope this helps.
Tom

I'll dig out my WD-40 and have a go. My idle definitely needs adjusting it sounds like and with me pulling the #1 plug yesterday confirms that with it be very dark as if too rich a mixture.

If you see the same timing mark misalignment after reducing the idle RPM, this is the typical power timing error - a little on the advanced side.

Sometimes I just have to shake my head as to my learning curve (forest for the trees) and figuring things out. I have a mostly disassembled engine in the garage at home and never think to take a look at things there and practice on those pieces before trying in the cramped engine space on the boat.

Realizing last evening about the aforementioned, I went out to the engine block on the stand and the dizzy (is that the right slang?) was still attached. Loosened the clamp down bolt a little and right away could twist the unit.. so now I know what it's SUPPOSED to feel like :D

I've also removed it to disassemble at my leisure on these increasingly dark evenings as a practice tool for setting the gap, checking/cleaning the advance, etc. before heading back to the boat this weekend.

I have a good memory it's just short. :rolleyes:

"You're not alone"
 

Greg, I have gotten to the point to where I have to make notes at home for what I want to do at the boat and to make notes at the boat for what I want to do at home. Apparently I have accomplished my goal of separating my boat world from my home world quite well.
Tom

Of all the things I've lost I miss my mind the most.

TRUE GRIT

What were we talking about?....:confused:

Hallowe'en?

Being able to take apart the extra dist in the comfort of the dining room table (shhh) I now have MUCH better idea who easy it is and how it all fits/works.

What do people use to clean up the advance?

With the dist still in the engine do you normally take the advance right out or use a q-tip and solvent? carb cleaner? They just look dirty not rusty.

Was at the boat Saturday puttering about - hey it was up to 6C inside!

Hand cranked the engine again, which I did about every 3 weeks over the winter and this time had with me a smaller size pipe wrench to try and see if I could not persuade the stuck distributor to turn.

Backed off the clamp and in trying to get the pipe wrench to fit the blasted thing turned! :eek: Put my hand on top and could easily turn it left or right; very carefully I put it back to its original position. I am guessing that 5 months of winter with a splash of penetrating fluid was all it needed. Phew!

Another month and it'll be warm enough to start 'er up!

Following up on this from last year, once I installed the vacuum gauge, I started fiddling with idle, the engine suddenly wouldn't idle less than 900, more like 1100. Could not figure it out....

So here I am on the weekend, checking things over before firing up for the first time and making sure linkages work, etc..

I notice the fuel lever does not set all the way against the idle stop... but why???

and then .. I notice that the small clear vacuum gauge hose (plastic) is caught between the lever and the stop!

:eek::rolleyes:

Another lesson learned...