Collective Wisdom ...
Looking for ideas (good and bad) for getting 40yr old SS bolt (slot head) out of a cast Aluminum bow plate?
Have a couple of chocks (Al as well) that need removing.. |
Unfortunately:
I suggest starting with a hand impact tool https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8...85539586&psc=1 and https://itstillruns.com/use-hand-imp...r-4809810.html |
Agree with Neil. Also use penetrating oil of some kind.The vibrations from the impact driver will help oil seep into the work. Time is you friend here—but, If you need to drill, remember that Stainless will get work-hardend VERY fast and only the best ($$$) drill bits will help then.
Drill very slow and keep it kool. |
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I'll get myself an Impact driver set like suggested anyways as its a good tool to have on hand I'm told. And if it does not work, then I figure I'll spend some time cutting up the alum chocks from around the bolt and then cut the bolt off flush with the top of the bow plate... which upon further pondering, I am not sure if it's Al or a cast white metal of some sort..
the job'll be done when the job is done.:rolleyes: Attachment 14597 |
Wow! that's a stout plate. A step above my Columbia Clorox bottle;)
Perhaps you could remove the whole plate and do the removal of the chocks in a shop environment or even have a machine shop do it(?) |
I think your time will be better spent thinking of reasons NOT to take those screws out than fancy ways of getting them out.
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Go to McMaster.Com and shop for cobalt drill bits. You know what sizes you need - might even find some left hand bits, also cobalt (great things).
Stainless tapped into aluminum is trouble down the road - not that I haven't done it myself! Blocks into a boom (#8 fasteners) are one thing, bow straps into a stem fitting (1/4" fasteners) are another. I had a SS spinnaker track attached to an Al mast with SS fasteners. Corrosion bent the track to the point that the car would no longer go up/down. Managed to remove and straighten the track. Reinstalled using new SS fasteners, but with a strip of electrical tape between the track and the mast. Problem solved. Case #2 - jib halyard winch working hard. Standard bronze winch, aluminum mast, cast aluminum spacer (flat to curved mast). Remove screws and the winch base comes off in FIVE pieces. Corrosion between the bronze and aluminum. New winch installed with electrical tape between the bronze and aluminum. Problem gone. |
what are the screws threaded into?
You might be able to drill or grind the heads off and take them out below? Dremel makes a great bit that makes grinding hard metal easy. |
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Popping out this evening to see if my solar panel survived after last Friday's wind storm (was away all weekend) and will put some penetrating oil on the threads for soaking this week so can see what can do this weekend. |
After using the penetrating oil tap the screw heads with a hammer. It will help the penetrating goop get down into the threads. If possible do this drill daily. Gravity is working for you in this case.
TRUE GRIT |
just a thought. drill a small pilot hole down thru the center of the bolt, then chase it down with a large countersink to machine away the head of the bolt. and remove the chock. as for the rest of the bolt I don't know what to tell you.:D
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the recomendation above, then an ez out.
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Boat may like EZouts - I do not. When they break (not IF) you have a hole with a piece of hardened tool steel in it. Even a cobalt drill won't get through that!
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Thanks folks for all the ideas!
Yesterday was finally a bit warmer day (+6C woohoo) and so popped to the boat out with a manual impact driver. A little penetrating fluid and about 5 minutes per bolt and they were all free. Nice handy little tool! |
Good news. The question now is how do you plan to refasten so this never happens again?
Hint: NOALOX is your friend. |
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Or TefGel too. |
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The picture is of the test fit of the platform after the chocks were removed. Attachment 14648 |
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