Exhaust Standpipe

[gmilburn]

I need some advice. My Standpipe has rusted out at the bottom and I'm hoping to build a new one from off the shelf pipe and pipe fittings. Does anyone know what this beast looks like in the inside? Seems the water enters in the lower part of the standpipe, while the exhaust enters the bottom, exiting near the top. Surely the exhaust doesn't push the water up without some type of baffles or separator. Help please. A simple diagram might help me. Is it crazy to think I can make one myself? Oh BTW, it is on an Ericson 29. Thanks in advance.

[ILikeRust]

[tenders]

The "new version" standpipe is the best system there is - certainly better than the "old version" or the waterlift muffler - as long as the boat has the vertical space to accommodate it. Simple, inexpensive, stays cool, stays dry, doesn't corrode. Mine doesn't get particularly hot and isn't wrapped in fiberglass.

[Kelly]

Exhaust elements

Post #5 in this thread has some pictures of the inside of a "standpipe" (I don't think this is the correct term for what I am showing, more like a "cooling muffler") illustrating the second drawing called "new version".

You can see the deflector cap in the top housing where the cooling water enters from above, the central tube in the bottom housing where the exhaust enters and what the assembly looks like when put together.

[gmilburn]

Thanks all, I now have a plan!

[Al Schober]

If you have room for it, this is the way to go:

http://www.moyermarine.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?preadd=action&key=EXHT_01.0_527

[TomG]

Like Al says, it's going to be hard to beat Moyer's standpipe - if you have the vertical space for it. I replaced a rusted-out water lift in my Tartan 30 with the MMI Stainless Steel Standpipe two years ago and couldn't be more pleased. Since the exhaust water drains out using gravity and is above the waterline on all points of sail, it is very improbable that I could flood the engine through the exhaust. Having installed the MMI version, I can attest without reservation that this is an extremely robust yet elegant design. I wouldn't say that at the $495 price tag that this standpipe is inexpensive, but would wholeheartedly say it is an excellent value. I figured my time and expense designing my own standpipe would yield a more expensive and less thoughtful product than buying Don's standpipe. After installing it, I am certain anything I built that was high quality as Don's would cost me twice as much and work half as well.

New MMI "Tartan" SS Standpipe Install

[toddster]

Please post any tips on how you extract that beast from your e29.

I have the identical set-up except mine rusted out at the top. (The rust all cut loose after an acid flush.) Unfortunately, I just finished installing a water heater to the left of that enclosure and relocated the heat exchanger to a panel attached to the front of the enclosure. Not looking forward to ripping it all back out again.

[gmilburn]

Freeing the Beast

OK, I once again want to call upon the collective knowledge of those on this site. I have unwrapped the fiberglass insulation of the hot section of my A4 exhaust and clearly, I'm going to have to use more brain power than man power to get it off the manifold without twisting off the bolt heads. Suggestions? I have soaked the bolt with PB Blaster and ample amounts of WD40--all to no avail. I believe that there is so much rust that neither penetrate has found its way into the threads. I am careful not to overpower the bolt, as I believe I could easily twist the bolts off (and do NOT want to drill out the remains). I saw some freezing aerosol spray at the autozone store, which claims can freeze nuts and bolts and break the rust holding them together loose. Has anyone tried such a product? Or have other suggestions? Maybe alternate heat (via torch) and cold (via freeze spray)? Any help would definitely be appreciated.

[hanleyclifford]

I don't know how much you pay yourself for an hourly rate, but in your situation I would get the whole thing off at the manifold and start from scratch. Black iron pipe is dirt cheap and a new flange is worth the money.

[Sony2000]

Please start with a mix of 50/50, acetone and ATF to loosen the bolts. There must be a crowd of guys here wanting to see the results. The bolts look pretty far gone.

[ILikeRust]

Hanley - I think he's saying he's trying to get the flange bolts off without twisting off the bolt heads.

In any case, I'm with Hanley - get the whole thing off, flange and all, and start anew.

As far as getting those rusty old bolts out, yeah... it's a bear.

Forget WD-40 - it's useless as a rust-releasing, penetrating lubricant.

The best commercially-produced penetrating lubricant I have found is Kroil, available at www.kanolabs.com.

A judicious application of concentrated heat can help - as from a MAPP torch or, better yet, an acetylene torch. Your typical Bernz-O-Matic propane torch won't put out enough heat to have any helpful effect.

I would be quite tempted to use my angle grinder with a metal-cutting disc to cut those bolt heads off, then use my Kroil and a bit screwdriver as a pry bar to get that flange off. Then I would deal with what's left of the bolts in the manifold.

Even with all that, you very well might end up having to cut the bolts off and drill them out of the manifold (meaning you would first have to remove the manifold.

Don't Ask Me How I Know This ("DAMHIKT").

[ndutton]

First thing I'd do is get out the Sawzall and whack off the hot pipe an inch from the flange. Should make anything else you do easier.

[Marian Claire]

I did as Neil suggests then made two cuts with the blade in the pipe at 2 o'clock and 10 o'clock. Being careful with the angle and stopping the cut just short of the flange. Used a punch and beat the center, 10 to 2 piece, down and then collapsed the rest of the pipe and removed it from the flange.
Dan S/V Marian Claire

[hanleyclifford]

I did as Neil suggests then made two cuts with the blade in the pipe at 2 o'clock and 10 o'clock. Being careful with the angle and stopping the cut just short of the flange. Used a punch and beat the center, 10 to 2 piece, down and then collapsed the rest of the pipe and removed it from the flange.
Dan S/V Marian Claire

Now [B]that[B] is finesse!