No crank or click when I start the engine

[reda911]

Hi guys, I just bought a Catalina 27 Atomic 4 engine (gas). I realized that the engine have starting issues. It cranks at times but at other times there is not even a click or any sound coming from the start circuit. It can works perfectly for weeks and then stop for no reason, and then start working whitout doing any change. Batteries are fully charged (12,2V on Ameter) and gas tank is full so I assume that it's an electric problem related to the ignition system. I heard that it was a common issue with Catalinas but cant find any solution. Please help


PS : Newbie with no experience. Sorry for the dumb question

[Marian Claire]

Welcome to the forum. Is that a start button on the lower right of the panel? If so that could be the problem.
Dan
S/V Marian Claire

[Dave Neptune]

Do you have an ignition switch somewhere?

It's all about volts and chasing down the week link. The start button is a good one and if your boat still has the trailer style plug attaching the panel to the engine that would be #2 for me.

Then it will be time for the volt meter. Start at the power to the panel then to the ignition, start button starter. Remember that bothersome plug is in between.

Dave Neptune

[reda911]

Thank you for you answer. @MarianClaire It's actually an igntion key whole.

@DaveNeptune The ignition switch is on the buttom right corner (protected by a black rubber for the key whole). The thing is, when the engine stops starting (no crank/ no click), it can starts working normally after a while without any change being made.

I found this thread with the exact same problem http://www.moyermarineforum.com/foru...ead.php?t=1724
but it seems that no on tried this solution.

[Sam]

You will get excellent advice from these forum members. A couple a years ago a lady friend in the harbor w/ 1977 27ft Oday had the same problem. I got lucky [no pun intended] and the problem was the first thing I tested .. varing ignition toggle switch which was on the panel, odd yours is not. A $15 marine grade replacement switch solved the problem.

Without getting complicated I have been on some boats, mine included, where the ignition switch powers the starter switch. On others the circuit is independent, engine turns over but will not start with ignition off. Yours sounds like the former and not the latter.

A decade ago on a spring bridge run I could not get the engine to turn over with the starter switch, mounted on the steering pedestal. Took off the compass exposing the wiring and use my pocket knife to jump the circuit. Another $15 fix. Your getting good advice checking both switches with a volt meter. You might have a "boat problem", not an "engine problem" as many have referenced in the past.

[Sam]

Sorry, I was bloviating while you answered the question about the ignition/key switch location. I would still start looking at this 'car like key ignition switch" and wiring first.

[JOHN COOKSON]

You might have a "boat problem", not an "engine problem" as many have referenced in the past.

To expand on this thought a bit.
The major engine systems (fuel, electrical, exhaust) all have a boat part and an engine part.
When there is a problem with a system a good way to start troubleshooting is determine whether the problem is with the boat's part of the system or the engine's part of the system.
Try running wire from the battery directly to the solenoid. If you get normal operation there is a problem with the boat's part of the starting system. If the solenoid doesn't kick in there is problem with the starter itself - probably a sticky solenoid.

TRUE GRIT

BTW: The Moyer Service and Overhaul Manuel is a excellent of information.
Available from MMI.
Welcome to the forum. It's nice to know you're never alone.

[Dave Neptune]

Wow it's a key switch. Just think of how much water has been sprayed and trapped in that switch over the years.

Can you use a voltmeter? This may seem daunting if you are just unfamiliar with the engine and components. If so do get the MMI manual if you are even contemplating doing the work yourself and it would even be a good idea if you have a mechanic doing the work so he can look at it. The manual is worth it especially for those with little or no experience.

These are very simple engines and one step at a time keeps it simple!!!

Dave Neptune

[Marian Claire]

"Batteries are fully charged (12,2V on Ameter)" Post #1.
This has me confused, nothing new about that. My understanding is a ammeter measures "flow" and direction in amps. Volt meter measures "pressure" in volts. Two different things. If a rested battery reads 12.2 volts on a volt meter it is about 50% charged. Not sure that this effects the problem but just need some clarification.
Dan
S/V Marian Claire

[Dave Neptune]

RE, Al and the sticky solenoid, there may not be enough voltage to close the solenoid to engage the starter.

If you get to the boat with a meter, check the voltage at the battery(s). Then get a reading when turning the key to run and then while trying to start. Look for a big voltage drop.

Take a good look at the ground side of the battery connections too, there notorious for big load drops (like engaging the starter) in voltage as the current won't flow at both ends.

One of the big troubles with intermittent failures is that it may be more than one point in a poorly maintained electrical connection maintenance schedule. I go over all load connections at least once a year.

Dave Neptune

[splashlog]

Solonoid

Had a similar issue a few years ago. Sometimes go, sometimes no go with starting. Replaced the solonoid, hasn't let me down since.

[zellerj]

Had a similar issue a few years ago. Sometimes go, sometimes no go with starting. Replaced the solonoid, hasn't let me down since.

I also had a similar issue. Turned out to be a loose ring terminal on the ground from the negative battery cable to the engine. If there is any movement at all in the ring terminals when pulling on them, pull the ring terminal off, clean up the wires to shiny new, and crimp on a new terminal.

[capnward]

Same thing for me. Intermittent cranking. It was the ring terminal where negative battery wire connected to the flywheel housing next to the starter. It did not move, but had corroded. That connection especially needs to be clean.