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[Dave Neptune]

Yer right Al, I got it to work too after a bit of effort. No biggie.

Are we going to have the emojis? I clicked on on but it did not show, I will try again here.

Dave Neptune

[Dave Neptune]

New forum test !. Hope this works as it would/will be good to be back.
Dave Neptune

[Dave Neptune]

If it was the alt you would not start because the batteries would be dead causing the engine to die. It is probably in the ignition especially if you have points. If so check the wires under the cap for a pinched wire or an intermittent grounding. Could still be the coil so do check for a snappy blue...

[Dave Neptune]

You should see 12V at the positive terminal when the ign is on.

Be very careful to turn off the key when done checking as leaving the ign on without the engine running can fry the coil in a short time.

You can check the coil by energizing it, key on and showing 12v at the...

[Dave Neptune]

Also unless you are using "points" that tester will not indicate the switching of the circuit in the EI.

Dave Neptune

[Dave Neptune]

OK, now check the checker by checking it on the battery. If the light comes on it still works. It is nothing more than a light bulb hooked to a probe.

You may of lost voltage to the ignition. It is better and almost the same process to use a volt meter of which you can check for far more...

[Dave Neptune]

First, what is the "static DC circuit timing light tester"? And what are you doing with it?

Do you still have spark?

Is there a chance that you did not get the plug wires back on extatically the same cylinder's plug? Did you move the distributor? If the answer...

[Dave Neptune]

The numbers are "stamped" into the block so it really needs to be cleaned of all rust. Stamped numbers are often easier to see with a light sanding once cleaned and they could be rusted away.
Upper left hand side of the block on the ign side and/or at the oil filler on the block. Numbers...

[Dave Neptune]

If you did set the carb float as stated the mix is already on the rich side. I set the many carbs I have done with the float lower in the bowl by 1/16" and the operators all liked the results. On my personal carb I went from an .042 jet to an .041 that I made myself. My mid range was better and...

[Dave Neptune]

Good you have the EI, once the C-advance is checked and lubed for proper operation then you can power time at WOT or where the RPM's max out. Once the max timing is achieved do be sure to back it off a tiny bit for a smoother running engine. It is easy to set the timing to advanced due to the A-4's...

[Dave Neptune]

As per Shawn I seriously doubt there is a need for anything but good tuning. I had a very worn out A-4 in my E35MKII with a 25' 6" waterline and I could get 2600 RPM's. I cruised at 2,000 easily all day long. My compression was low in all but one cylinder and after tuning "properly" I...

[Dave Neptune]

That will work just fine. Best to put more time into thinking about future addons
and how to shorten runs before doing the actual wiring. Also remember to do as much as you can on buss bars for both positive and negative runs. And be sure you have a good ground of at least 4ga from the motor...

[Dave Neptune]

I used 8ga on mine during my rewire as I was planning on possibly going to a 50amp alt but never bothered. I did not need the oomph as I had no refrigeration and I converted my lighting to LED. I could sit for a week at Catalina and still start on the "house" circuit with the start still in...

[Dave Neptune]

Yes it is considered good practice to close the water intake when not in use. And yes the water can "drain" back down to the water line through the water pump via small gaps around the impeller. Your heating can be from a weak impeller not pumping t enough water or many other things. I'd check...

[Dave Neptune]

Thanx, not impatient just curious. Hopefully everything works out well for all associated with the MMI Forum.

Dave Neptune

[Dave Neptune]

So no update? Was it postponed, cancelled or did I just miss it?

Dave Neptune

[Dave Neptune]

One more thought it could be an "intermittent fuel supply". If the RPM's increase slowly like the engine is surging, fuel supply is a distinct possibility. This could be caused by a sticky float. If it is a rapid increase the fuel is doubtful.

Dave Neptune

[Dave Neptune]

Oops, just realized this was your first post so welcome to the MMI Forum.

Checking for vacuum leaks can be problematic until the engine is actually running. What you do is spray around the engine intake manifold and carb connections with a flammable and WD-40 works and is pretty safe...

[Dave Neptune]

Sounds also like you may have a vacuum leak. Check that the base gasket and spacer gasket if so equipped are both in properly and sealed. Be sure that the scavenge tube assembly, the small copper tube that connects to the manifold is also sealed and tightened properly.

It is normal for...

[Dave Neptune]

That will work however I like hooking it to the battery switch output side. That way you can charge one bank at a time or both at the same time. It will really work either way depending on how the wiring lead(1&2) go the the solenoid.

Dave Neptune